“I don’t want to go to a museum. I don’t want to look at a market. I just want to lie down. I’m broken.’
For Felix (11), it is a rare moment of surrender.
But then again, anyone landing at Nairobi’s Wilson Airport – named the best city to visit in 2024 by Lonely Planet – after a week-long safari will understand the profound exhaustion that comes from seven days of sunrises and eight hour’s daily collision. game drives and the out-of-my-head thrill that comes from looking into the eyes of leopards and lions as they devour their prey and stay alive before your eyes to tell the story.
The brain is overloaded. The heart is full. But boy, the body needs rest. And best of all, jump into the water that isn’t full of manatees and crocodiles.
As our jeep winds through the morning chaos and streets full of workers and street vendors, I wonder if we will ever find an oasis of peace before we board our flight home the next morning.
MailOnline Travel’s Fiona Hardcastle checked into the House of Waine in Nairobi, Kenya
The family-run hotel has one suite (Malaika upstairs), 10 rooms and a self-contained cottage
Large wooden doors lead to the lobby of the boutique hotel
A taxi approaches us, the pink neon stripe on the windshield screaming: “God is the answer!”
That may be the case, but our needs are more urgent and focus on the essentials: peace, quiet and, ideally, a swimming pool.
House of Waine, a boutique hotel twenty minutes’ drive from the airport, seems to be an ideal place to stop over before flying back to England.
Located in the leafy suburbs of Masai Lane, the impressive entrance via a gated driveway gives a taste of what awaits.
Formal front gardens frame this ornate mansion and as soon as you enter you are greeted by a colonial atmosphere.
A lobby of polished stone leads to gleaming teak floors, tasteful modern furniture and a wide selection of African art.
Double doors lead to a courtyard where landscaped gardens stretch to either side. Palm trees provide shade on the sun loungers by the pool, while covered tables and chairs are spread out on the lawn.
Fiona’s son Felix was particularly impressed by the outdoor pool, even though it is unheated
On the top floor is the author Karen Blixen’s house (now a museum), where she was inspired to write the novel Out of Africa in 1937
Even the famous Karen Blixen Museum or the David Sheldrike Wildlife Trust – both attractions just a few steps from the hotel – failed to entice us.
Felix begs to jump in the pool – his first this week – but first we are taken to our rooms.
Rose (17) and Evie (16) are led back to the main house and taken upstairs to “Tembo” – Swahili for elephant – a spacious and bright double bedroom overlooking the gardens.
To Felix’s delight, we are all led back to the pool and given the keys to a charming cottage hidden behind a hedge.
With a private porch, stylishly furnished lounge, dining area, fully equipped kitchen and two bedrooms with spotlessly clean bathrooms, this could be a week-long family home. Since we only have one night, we can’t waste any time.
Since the girls finally want their own space, they announce that they will do their own thing. Rose takes a book in the garden while Evie, reunited with WiFi, takes a prime position on the hotel’s front balcony.
Fiona stayed in the cottage (above) which has a private verandah and fully equipped kitchen
With one double room and one single room, The Cottage provided the perfect space for Fiona’s family
Rooms at House of Waine cost around $420 (£330) per night at the time of writing. One of the hotel’s common areas is upstairs
I can’t wait to take a long, hot bath, and before long I’m splashing around in a fluffy white dressing gown and slippers, flipping through the cottage’s selection of illustrated hardcover books about life in Africa.
Felix runs to the pool and terrorizes his father into swimming with him in the refreshingly cold water. Like a saint facing increasingly cold temperatures, he does so – with the agreement that we’ll all meet in the shaded seating in an hour for our first board game of the holiday – Ticket To Ride: The Heart of Africa. our latest version of this insanely competitive series.
As always, an hour flies by in a heated time of familial rivalry and geographic supremacy.
Détente quickly gives way to guilt when paths are blocked and victories destroyed. Strangely enough, we feel like ourselves again and are ready for dinner. Although we better stop shooting before the starters arrive.
Fiona’s daughters Rose and Evie live in a “spacious and bright double room” (above) called “Tembo” (Swahili for elephant) which overlooks the gardens
Fiona and her family saw leopards, lions and hippos during their Kenya adventure
Baby elephants at the Nairobi National Park Orphanage
The dining room at the front of the hotel is a pleasantly formal affair, with muted colours, starched white tablecloths and attentive waiters in sharp waistcoats. The food, although a little old fashioned, is well presented and the portions are large.
Red Snapper and Steak Diane are a hit with meat eaters, while vegetarians will be happy with their aubergine pasta and potato dish.
A robust bottle of South African Chardonnay sets the stage for bed. The judicious addition of hot water bottles left under the covers when we return to our rooms only helps us sleep better.
We wake up refreshed and more ready than ever for a 6,000 mile flight.
House of Waine made us whole again. And these Big Five are refreshed with enough energy to power our journey home.
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James is an author and travel journalist who writes for The Fashion Vibes. With a love for exploring new cultures and discovering unique destinations, James brings his readers on a journey with him through his articles.
