House prices in Rock on the North Cornwall coast are absurd. They’ve been doing it since the 1980s, when large groups of Londoners came to the square with their Labradors and let their teenagers loose all night drinking alcopop.
William and Harry were regulars in the 1990s and things got a little tricky in 2020 when the Lib Dem MP for the region said the seaside town had been taken over by “upper class jobs”.
I dare say the honking of the privileged can get tiring in July and August, but in the off-season it’s a lovely place, especially if you stay at the privately owned St Enodoc Hotel, a handsome Edwardian building on a hill overlooking the snout of the camel.
It’s been a hotel for over 100 years, but it’s far from dwelling on the past. Works by local artists along the walls for sale; The blue and white stripes give it a chic nautical flair, and the food and service are reassuringly good.
The inspector checks into the St Enodoc Hotel, a handsome Edwardian building on a hill overlooking the Camel Estuary in Cornwall
The blue and white stripes in the hotel’s decor give it a “chic nautical vibe.”
There are several places to sit and think; Sofas and armchairs are upholstered in William Yeoward and Mulberry fabrics and the atmosphere is warm and friendly.
“It’s something very special to work all day at the reception and enjoy this view,” says the young woman who gives us the key. Our room is directly above reception, with an even better view. We see a swimming pool in the garden and a large terrace for outdoor lunches and dinners.
There are two restaurants: one is called Karrek and offers a multi-course tasting menu. It is only open from Thursday to Saturday. It is convenient for us as we are here on a Sunday.
“We see a swimming pool in the garden and a large terrace for outdoor lunches and dinners,” reveals the inspector
Sofas and armchairs in the hotel are upholstered in William Yeoward and Mulberry fabrics and the atmosphere is warm and friendly
That means dining in the more comfortable and infinitely cheaper split-level brasserie, where we start with six oysters caught two or three hundred meters away before moving on to the catch of the day.
Apparently the owners have a farm nearby and many products come from there, including the most delicious bacon.
A short walk takes you to the passenger ferry to Padstow, the harbor town which is at its best out of season. Eating a pie on the way back is one of those essential experiences, like riding the Star Ferry from Hong Kong to Kowloon.
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James is an author and travel journalist who writes for The Fashion Vibes. With a love for exploring new cultures and discovering unique destinations, James brings his readers on a journey with him through his articles.
