Grunge, punk and a pinch of fetish – how the Paco Rabanne show reflects our time

Paco Rabanne Fashion House has always relied on futurism and the use of original materials such as metal, plastic and more. But the current designer of the brand, Julien Dossen, played the director rather optimistically, reflecting romantic ideas about the French style of the 70s and 80s. The fashion show of the 2023 spring-summer collection, which took place on July 3 in Paris, literally divided the history of the brand into “before” and “after”.

The show directly reflects the mood of 2022, at least take the podium with a metal net, reminiscent of an underground stage – an homage to the brand’s first shows. Radical sentimentality, anger and chaos – after all, the glass is half empty. The screening invitations sent the day before only confirm the sudden change in angle – the somber invitations made of black rubber display the inscription “On Duty.”

Oddly enough, the show started with lace. It’s not just simple: the romantic interpretation of the latter was immediately resolved, thanks to the combination of glossy latex and PVC and material, rough military boots with chains and perforated “grandmother” headscarves.

The designer accentuates the contrast of the times with another flamboyant gimmick – bandaged belts that frame the neck and waist over the floral jumpsuits.

By the way, one of the references of the show was Subversion – a game of grunge slips and kilts in a punk style from just that game. The dynamism continues with abstract prints on dresses and trench coats (which, by the way, are dyed) and fringes, while a rich color palette from all-black to red and purple accentuates the main idea of ​​the show.

Especially dazzling in images that are metallic silver from head to toe – a trademark of House. On the one hand we have a particular reference to chain mail and pictures of warriors. But it should be noted that it is here that a romantic mood begins to arise, and the glass is no longer empty – metallized combinations are still more sophisticated than fetish rubber bands.

The final look with fluffy skirts, more restrained hues – there’s a hint of tenderness towards the end of the show. So is there light at the end of the tunnel? Symbolism can be safely opened to the fullest. Besides boldly putting an end to the question that excites the best minds every day, fashion always shows the changes in the world and reflects not only the demands of the times, but also the times itself.