“ Under the Pont Alexandre III, illuminated by the light of the first full moon of the year, creative director John Galliano captures a moment: a bumpy walk in the bowels of Paris. » This concludes the note of intent for the Masion Margiela Artisanal 2024 fashion show which took place on January 25, 2024 as part of the haute couture of Paris Fashion Week.
Artisanal Maison Margiela Collection John Galliano 2024 Fashion Show
This fashion show was almost a year in the making. And it exceeded expectations, given that the 250 guests, as well as the fans at home who watched live on the networks, have not yet recovered. We even argue that this show would be worth those of Galliano’s Dior years. It was in the setting of a Belle Époque bistro, abandoned for too long, sad as it should be, that single-brass artist Lucky Love first came to sing the song, ” Now I don’t need your love », accompanied by a gospel choir. “ Now I don’t need your love anymore »: Should we hear a message from John Galliano?
Wax doll, sound doll
A short film then presents a rainy, nighttime Paris that throws reality into stark relief, before the first model breaks through the fourth wall that is the screen to bring the fiction to life. This is Leon Dame, John Galliano’s muse, who goes around shirtless, with an ultra-waist marked by a very tight corset and black trousers, confirming the macabre tone of the production. It wouldn’t be the same without the beauty of Dame Pat McGrath’s waxy, terrible porcelain dolls.
The clothes follow one another, one more difficult to describe than the other, as they mix materials and techniques, to deform the body rather than sublimate it, playing with forming growths or narrowings of the anatomy. Also thanks to bodices that look like porcelain but are actually made of leather. Many pieces even enjoy revealing nudity rather than masking it, through confusing games of transparency. Until the final passage, masterfully played by Gwendoline Christie (Brienne de Torth in the series game of Thrones), disjointed marital style.
Don’t separate the man from the great designer
It’s a parade of monstrous dolls, not at all suitable for children, limping to the tune of ” Hometown glory » by Adele which took the place of Lucky Love as regards the soundtrack.
“ I’m not lost, I’m just wandering » (“ I’m not lost, I’m just wandering “) sings the British diva, perfectly describing the look of the models, and perhaps even the career of John Galliano himself, starting from his scandalous racist and anti-Semitic statements in 2011, which cost him the title of Dior. It was in 2014 that he entered be part of Maison Margiela. He has therefore been managing this empire of anonymity in the most discreet way possible for ten years, while anti-Semitism explodes in France (anti-Semitic acts quadrupled between 2022 and 2023, and experienced a peak of +1000% between October and November.) If forgiveness is impossible, and we cannot separate the man from the great designer, the latter continues to try to explain himself, and will do so once again through the release of a new documentary in March 2024: Highs and Lows: John Galliano.
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Source: Madmoizelle
Mary Crossley is an author at “The Fashion Vibes”. She is a seasoned journalist who is dedicated to delivering the latest news to her readers. With a keen sense of what’s important, Mary covers a wide range of topics, from politics to lifestyle and everything in between.
