After languishing uphill for what seems like an eternity with only the sound of my own gasp for company, I suddenly feel a surge of applause and encouragement.
Looking up in surprise, I see my cycling buddies already on top of this monstrous mountain (okay, it’s a hill, but it’s Everest-like proportions to me) standing on the side of the road cheering me on for the last stretch.
It’s a heartwarming touch that makes the climax of the 7-mile climb to 1,400 feet on the Croatian island of Hvar all the sweeter, especially when I contemplate the beautiful view.
The sprint on the other hand is even better. “It’s not a race,” shouts our cycling guide, Vania, as we race like demons and enjoy this exciting ride to the port town of Chi-Chi, also known as Hvar, to reboard our three-masted motor yacht Princeza Diana.
Sara Macefield embarks on a week-long cycling cruise to Croatia’s Dalmatian Islands aboard the three-masted motor yacht Princeza Diana (above).
We are halfway through a week-long cycling cruise, meandering through the extraordinarily beautiful Dalmatian islands, scattered like precious emeralds in the Adriatic Sea.
There are 32 of us, mostly North Americans, a handful of Australians and about eight Brits – most in our fifties and sixties. What connects us is our enthusiasm and our experience with cycling. This is not a trip for beginners.
Princeza Diana is a cozy retreat with 16 traditional cabins (ours has bunk beds and a double bed, as well as an impressively spacious ensuite shower), plenty of space for sunbathing and a bubbling Jacuzzi – just the place to soothe aching muscles to caress
Shared tables in the dining area and bar add to the cozy atmosphere of the trip as we gather for a decent breakfast of fresh fruit, eggs and cheese, and a three course lunch with a choice (delicious soup, grilled fish and pasta) and standard is more variable.
The drive to the chi-chi port town of Hvar (above) is “exciting”, reveals Sara
Princess Diana above is a “cozy oasis” with 16 traditionally decorated cabins
Our itinerary – one of four routes of varying difficulty offered by Sail Croatia – is the toughest due to gravity-defying hills and daily rides of up to 30 miles.
No wonder half the group opts for e-bikes, although I’m against it. Nevertheless, I occasionally regret it, especially on teeth-grinding climbs, when the e-bikers glide past effortlessly, relaxed and barely breaking a sweat.
But it’s not just hardcore hills. There are delightful twists and turns along deserted coastal roads that unleash incredible panoramas, and trips inland along country roads through grape-filled vineyards.
The sleepy villages we pass are ideal for coffee breaks, and their honey-stone houses with distinctive ocher roofs are a nod to their Venetian heritage.
One of the most relaxing morning drives is on Mljet, Croatia’s most forested island, protected by a national park on the west side.
Sara says one of the most “relaxed” bike rides of the trip was on the forested island of Mljet
On Mljet (above), some of Sara’s fellow travelers opted for a dip in the aquamarine waters of the Adriatic Sea.
As we follow the empty tracks, Vania points to a 12th-century former Benedictine monastery on the tiny island of St Mary. Parts of the Romanesque complex and the accompanying church are open all year round. There is also a coffee shop.
This is achieved with a free boat service that picks people up at the landing site after waving the conveniently placed flag.
We continue over a beautiful humpback bridge, built to replace the bridge that was torn down by President Tito, the ruler of the former Yugoslavia (which included Croatia) so he could sail his yacht across it. We ride our bikes once or twice a day, although this is not mandatory. Some choose to walk or swim in the blue waters of the Adriatic Sea.
Above is the 12th-century former Benedictine monastery on the small island of St Mary
Sara swaps her bike for an e-bike to explore the enchanting island of Korcula. Above is the town of Korcula on the island
Sara flies up the (upper) hills of Korcula “like a bird” thanks to her e-bike
With daytime temperatures hovering around 20°C and a mix of sun and showers, conditions are perfect most days.
As the cruise is half-board, we go ashore each evening with recommendations for the best restaurants from our tour guide, Nina. We also hunt forex as Princess Diana has a cash only system.
Arriving on the enchanting island of Korcula, my body still aches from the previous day’s murderous hill and my legs feel like lead weights. I can’t bear to get back into the saddle so convince an e-biker to trade in for the day.
What a genius move, as it turns out when this motorized bike propels me along and I fly up the hills like a bird, feeling a little guilty as I pass my huffing companions.
I can’t help but think I’m cheating, but I really don’t care. As the saying goes, if you can’t beat ’em, join ’em.
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James is an author and travel journalist who writes for The Fashion Vibes. With a love for exploring new cultures and discovering unique destinations, James brings his readers on a journey with him through his articles.
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