In the last few years, the Kaliningrad region has experienced explosive growth in tourism. This was facilitated by covid with closed borders and the region’s inclusion in the Russian tourist reimbursement program.
But the important thing is that even before that, a distinctive gastronomic culture began to form in the Russian Baltic, and residents of neighboring European countries were happy to come to local restaurants.
At some point, Kaliningrad began to be called “new St. Petersburg, just cheaper” from a gastronomic point of view. Now the prices are already quite Moscow, but the number of interesting places has increased. Since the number of tourists is also increasing, the main rule of going to restaurants in Kaliningrad is this: the earlier you book, the better. Especially in the summer – ideally two weeks.
Kaliningrad
There are many good restaurants and cafes in the city. You need a reservation to get the best. But if you just wander around and take care of your loved ones, you will not lose.
Breakfast: trendy at Brunch & Bowl, European at Croissant, fabulous at Amalienau breakfast
The trendiest place in the city center is Branch & Bowl, which is almost always full, even in the morning. And no wonder: there is a huge variety of original positions. For example, you can order benedict with northern shrimp, fried salmon and cream of oysters, or baked carrots and pumpkin pie.
You can find classic European breakfasts at the Croissant cafe: have a Dutch breakfast and imagine you are in Amsterdam as the climate is similar.
Special mention should be made of the Amalienau breakfast cafe. It’s far from the center, but it’s worth going there on purpose: it’s a gorgeous house in the beautiful Amalienau district, it doesn’t have Wi-Fi (on purpose!), but there are dishes tailored to taste and service. Try the circus or tofniki, the chickpea omelet or the Four Cheese Toast with Mushrooms.
Addresses:
“Brunch and Bowl”, st. Theatre, 23
“Croissant”, square meters of wins, 4
Amalienau breakfast, Chestnut Road, 1
Lunch: German at Steindamm 99, French at Madame Boucher, Italian at Peperoncino
In the town cafe “Steindamm 99” you can dine in historic Koenigsberg: it is located in an old house and the institution has a pre-war spirit and style: authentic beams on the ceiling, brick walls, wooden floor. Prussian cuisine: Königsberg beetles, rubanina from local fish and venison in various forms – tartar, roast, dried meat and even meatballs.
Another option while wandering around the old town is the Peperoncino pizzeria. Not only pizza, but also pasta and other hot dishes.
If you find yourself in the Fish Village, then head to Madame Boucher: the view of the water and pier adds a French flair and color to the restaurant. Get the bouillabaisse for lunch with onion pie. And for dessert – honey cake.
Addresses:
“Steindamm 99”yI. Zhytomyrska, 22
“Peperoncino”, see addresses here
“Madame Bush”yI. Oktyabrskaya, 2a
Dinner: gastronomic “Salt” and Seasons or cozy “Parmesan”
Of course, the main gastronomic destination of Kaliningrad is Sol gastrobar. Here they prepare dishes from the specialties found within a radius of 100 km: Rominta deer, Baltic sea bass and eel, sea buckthorn, Ostrinda (Old German) cow’s milk cheeses. Be sure to try the favorite delicacies that have been here since its inception – salmon ceviche with passion fruit sauce, beef tartare with black garlic aioli, and crispy eggplant.
Gastronomy destination 2-Seasons restaurant. This is the second project of the creators of Salt, which has positioned itself as a modern kitchen of Russian origin. For starters, get the homemade bread and farm butter with porcini mushrooms and truffles. Then try the roe with mousse of fried potatoes, homemade lard with black caviar and mashed root vegetables.
By the way, both Salty and Seasonal are worth booking at least a week, preferably two weeks in advance.
It’s much easier to stumble upon one of the two stark Parmesan trattorias – grab a carpaccio of pink tuna or a marbled beef bruschetta and tagliatta with ceviche, arugula and cherry tomatoes. And no fuss!
If you have the strength after dinner, head to the “Distracted” bar – here are the best cocktails in town.
Addresses:
Sol, st. Leonova, 55
seasons, Hope Mira, 74
Parmesan, st. Living room, 3 / st. K.Marx, 18
“Your horizons are scattered”, st. Partner, 6
Svetlogorsk
Formerly a respected resort in German times, Rauschen has retained its Svetlogorsk bourgeois atmosphere. Not to forget to have a good meal between walks in the maple streets and old villas!
Breakfast: hearty at the Royal or Altplatz in Königsbacker
The best option if you want to start the morning with coffee and pastries: croissants, tartlets, cheesecake, various eclairs or, for example, quiche with meat and potatoes. Caution: it is addictive!
For a hearty breakfast, head to Alt Platz: you can order porridge or scrambled eggs separately, or have a complex breakfast – in Russian, English or French.
Addresses:
Königsbacker, st. lena, 20
“Lower Platz”, st. lena, 17a
Lunch: Baltic style at the Local or on the beach at Amber Cafe
Grab a table on the patio at Local and enjoy the atmosphere and Baltic cuisine. If you like fish soup, try the local version of Baltic soup: it’s made with succinic acid. In the heat, get cold borscht with smoked potatoes. Top it off with Baltic fish pancakes and gluten-free cheese scones with smoked sour cream or smoked eel butter.
If during the day you decide to go to the beach of the village of Pionersky, for lunch go to Amber Cafe: perhaps this is the most fashionable place on the coast. The main recommendation: Have stroganina as a snack – here’s one of the best in those parts.
Addresses:
Local, st. Gagarina, 15
amber cafe, Pionersky village, Portovaya street, 5a
Dinner: Fish at “Fisherman’s House” or Mediterranean at “Papa Beppe”
Do you want to not only have lunch but also dine with a sea view? Then go to the “Fisherman’s House” – it is located just above the embankment and its windows offer an excellent panoramic view. Also, the restaurant has an interesting approach to food and bright presentation. Of course, here you need to buy fish – for example, smelly, perch or flounder in potato peel.
If you’re a bit tired of Baltic cuisine, choose Papasha Beppe for dinner and order poke or pasta. Make sure to leave room for dessert: there’s a great cheesecake and delicious ice cream.
Addresses:
“The Fisherman’s House”, coastline, 1
“Daddy Dad”, st. lena, 8
Zelenogradsk
One of the best beaches in the area (look for the word “frying pans”), proximity to the Curonian Spit – all the streets with preserved German mansions – that’s enough to go here already.
Breakfast at Port-o-Coffee
Lovers of good coffee and interesting morning meals will definitely appreciate this place: cottage cheese gnocchi, green buckwheat with spinach sauce, bulgur porridge with bacon and boiled egg. The variety is great!
Address: st. Pugacheva, 8a
Lunch: by the sea – at the “Dacha” or “Am! Bar”
What could be better than sitting on a patio by the sea and looking at the water while eating? “Dacha” and “Am! bar” are perhaps the two best places in Zelenogradsk for this. First, get the Normandy halibut and catfish soup. In the latter, it is more difficult to decide, the menu is very extensive, including Lithuanian and Polish dishes. But you’re in no rush to go anywhere on vacation, so you can choose!
Addresses:
“Cottage”, st. Volodarsky, 32
“Barn”, st. Volodarsky, 30
Dinner: at the popular Telegraph or on the stylish Promenade
Opened last year, Telegraph is still Zelenogradsk’s most popular restaurant. It is located in the historic post office building and the interior of the restaurant highlights the German architecture. The menu is small but efficient, the cuisine as usual Baltic. Get the bonito stroganina (you must try this fish at least once in and around Kaliningrad!), a salad of smoked sea bream and veal cheeks with pearl barley and aged cheese.
The alternative is the “Promenade” on the seashore, whose chief works at the Moscow enterprises of the White Rabbit Family. Get grilled beef to start, a salad with champignons and an Asian dressing with fresh vegetables, and halibut fillet with mussels in Curry Velute sauce or grilled calamari with Spice as a main course.
Addresses:
“Telegram”, resort street, 29
“Gezi”, st. Volodarsky, 24v
Source: People Talk
