This beauty accessory promises to remove hair without pain … But what is it really?

If you have grown over the years 1990 and 2000you must necessarily know or have already tested depilatory gum. You know, it is this tool, often presented in the form of a smooth pebble, which is rubbed very vigorously into the skin to remove hair. Did you think it was wiped off the face of the earth? We too. Yes, because it represents the least effective tool possible and since its friction created, at the time, multiple first degree burns.

Finally, to see them reappear, as if by magic, we will have to wait until 2022. And this in a society where however, we are starting to see hair for what it is again: a protective tool that we can remove if we want but that we can also keep. Because it is OUR body and we do what we want with it.

And we say thank you who? Thanks of course to TikTok as it is on this same platform as the hashtag #crystal depilator began to appear. Since then, this same keyword has garnered over 60 million views. But are they the same depilatory gums as we had 20-30 years ago or have they changed?

Depilatory gum, a product that raises questions

With its improved design, its stylized shape and its pastel colors, one would tend to think that the depilatory gum has changed. In truth, the principle remains absolutely the same as before. Featuring a very slightly grainy glossy glass coating, the gum “cuts” the hair closely due to friction on the skin. An action that produces exactly the same result as when using a razoras the American dermatologist Shari Marchbein explains rhythm :

“This surface cuts the hairs at the follicle opening. He is said to use “crystalline nanotechnology,” whatever that means, to make his hair fall out by literally rubbing or cutting it on the surface of the skin. “

While the before-after can be impressive on TikTok, the specialist remains cautious: these cute items are no less aggressive and present a (large) risk of skin irritation:

“It appears to be an incredibly abrasive and aggressive way to remove hair which can lead to significant redness, irritation and peeling of the skin.”

Despite their good press on social networks, hair removal gums have little study surrounding them. The only information that can be found on this topic on the net often comes from the brands themselves. which is not really a guarantee of efficiency and safety.

What we do know, however, is that these little beauty tools they are sold by the hundreds on platforms like Amazon and that many are those who, after seeing videos on social networks, want to try them. And this, despite the possible reactions and warnings of dermatologists.

All forms of hair removal can be aggressive

For a few years, our relationship with body hair has changed. Armpits, belly, groin, legs or even eyebrows … We no longer organize our week around an appointment with the beautician to remove the smallest square centimeter of hair that may be on our body. And this is good! This liberation of the female body, still surrounded by patriarchal clichés, led us to re-evaluate the importance of hair removal. A practice that even though she looks at everyone in her intimacy, in the end she is quite aggressive to the body. Wax, laser, razor, depilatory gum … all these solutions can be abrasive for the epidermis. A theory shared by Shari Marchbein:

“Any method of hair removal unfairly removes it from its home, the follicles. This process can create inflammation regardless of the method. The good news is that it’s not a matter of life or death if you decide to try (hair removal gum) out of curiosity. If you do, avoid any body exfoliation before use, apply tons of repair cream afterwards to lubricate and protect the skin. “

Image credits: @draws_beauty.