Who is Salavat Kypere? Interview with the ugliest Russian stylist about the genesis of style, the absurdity of the fashion industry and copying

About six years ago, while surfing the now-banned social network, I came across a photo of a friend of mine, Salavat Kypere, and a biting post with obscene language that could only be interpreted as: “I think everyone should know about this diva.” An important clarification: the “diva” wore only a leather trench coat, wool and pointed-toe pumps. I couldn’t get past such an aggressive clickbait, so in the next few seconds I clicked the “Subscribe” button and went through the detailed instructions (i.e. Salavat’s photos) to my shock.

Even then, Vika (the real name of our today’s heroine) wore over-the-knee boots, suits for the bare body, transparent dresses, fancy glasses, berets, latex trousers and coarse leather jackets. I’ve used all of this as inspiration for my trips to Rabitsa, Pluto, and other places on the list. But that was six years ago.

Now Salavat Kypere has become one of the most influential stylists in the local fashion industry, her photo hangs in Alexandre Vauthier’s office, Kanye West subscribes to her account on the same banned social network, and stylist Julia Fox claims her brand products. And I haven’t mentioned the collaboration with Balenciaga yet. Although it is better to let the hero himself talk about it.

How did your fashion journey begin?

For as long as I can remember, I have always loved being photographed and shaping pictures. You have no idea how much is stored in the VKontakte archives. Some avatars from 12 years ago are worth something! (to laugh). By the way, I want to say that all this seems relevant even now.

Just living in Kazan, I had no idea you could make money out of it. I always had the idea that I should be smart, know math, know the basics of accounting and other things on the list. (to laugh.) Therefore, after school, after listening to my father’s advice “go to construction, there is always money”, I entered the Kazan State University of Architecture and Civil Engineering. Mainly because there are only non-formal students there, and I like that. In general, he received higher education, worked for a year or two in his specialty, and after a while he went to St. He moved to St. Petersburg and got a job as an engineer.

Well, then there was the 2014 crisis, I wasn’t paid for almost six months and after a while I was completely cut off. True, for six months they immediately recouped the entire amount. Despite the fact that the salary was about 30 thousand rubles, there was enough money in total. And here the most interesting began. Where to spend this money? Traveling abroad? Your friends either have no money or work. That’s why I decided to take a fashion course to make connections in the industry. There I met Kirill Shapovalov (one of Russia’s most popular house DJs). – note. ed.).). And we’re leaving. Then I got a job as a Blogger stylist at TopTop. I’m not kidding, that’s exactly what the workbook said.

You once told your parents that you have a love of fashion. Can you tell me what exactly is influential in the formation of your style?

My sense of style is definitely from my mom, really “clumsy”. For example, I recently bought a Comme des Garçons hat, reminiscent of the one at Hogwarts. (to laugh.).). Almost everyone said it was embarrassing for him and only my mom checked.

But what I am truly grateful for to my family is my taste in music. All my classmates turned on Madonna, Depeche Mode, Kino and Zemfira while listening to Natalia Oreiro and Hands Up. Yes, it’s not underground music, but it’s still a great form.

What influences style formation in general?

Everything comes from childhood. The movies you watch, the music you listen to, the stars you take as an example. All these components are gradually added to a single picture. By the way, here is my personal example. As a kid, I adored Madonna, listened to her songs, watched videos a million times, was inspired by the images and dreamed of going to a concert. And only now, in examining my style, do I realize how much I borrowed from him. But Madonna, Madonna and me too. The loans don’t seem obvious because they add my character and many other factors.

What about vision? Can you retrain yourself?

no doubt. I believe it all depends on the person and their efforts. If you want to lose weight – don’t eat, if you want to be fashionable – watch nonstop shows, archive collections, and anything else on the list. Everything is clearly shown there: what to wear, how to wear and what to combine with. The problem is that people are so lazy and don’t even try to find themselves.

Recently, I have increasingly noticed a very unpleasant trend in which many stupidly copy what is fashionable. It is possible to see this not only in social networks, but also in fashion weeks. All dressed in assorted blacks, with added leather, latex, and strange glasses in the spirit of Balenciaga. And it just looks ridiculous, because for some this style does not fit at all. In order not to offend anyone, I will not give an example, but this is not close to me. All my life I have been associated with this style and now it is not read. So I decided to go with the avant-garde.

Is it really possible that in a few years fashion has gone in such a ridiculous direction and we’re all dressed like carbon copies?

Unfortunately, we are all hostages of the industry. After all, fashion is a money-making business, a machine that will never stop. And that’s scary. There are no holidays in fashion. If you decide to rest for a month, that’s it, the train has left. Trends change at lightning speed, so you’re always a little nervous.

Don’t you think that the fashion industry has become very vulnerable and can be taken off at the slightest thing?

These are Western values, not Russian values. We are more or less on the same line. I sincerely believe that almost all scandals are exaggerated, even absurd, with such nonsense. Especially when everyone starts burning their Balenciaga stuff. Why? I wore and will wear things because I love them.

Speaking of Balenciaga. You’ve been to two brand shows. Can you tell us how your cooperation started?

Last year I received a letter in the mail. And they called me by my real name, not as Salavat Kypere. To be honest, at first I thought it was fake. Then I wrote to friends and other industry acquaintances from Antwerp and only believed it when they said it was a genuine invitation. Going for the first time was a little scary and there wasn’t much money. But I actually want to say that expectation is much more pleasant than reality. Looks very cool from the outside, but actually nothing special. The only thing worth going to fashion weeks is making new acquaintances.

I believe that flirting in general is decisive. And the hardest thing in a stylist’s job is to find the right people and learn how to communicate with people. Everything else is secondary.

You said you were very inspired by travel. You started wearing rings after a trip to New York, and after Tokyo you moved on to the avant-garde. If you were a tourist, Moscow and St. What do you think will inspire you in St. Petersburg?

Moscow doesn’t inspire me at all, it’s just not my city. He seems to live by the “to appear, not to be” rule. But it shouldn’t be like that. Peter is different. This is a kind of golden meaning between Russia and Europe. It may be more underground, but it is also saturated with the Russian air that I love so much. Many people say that our people always have dissatisfied faces, but I like it. I appreciate the sincerity of people and the fact that they don’t laugh in their faces like strangers and then call the police.

If we talk about what St. Petersburg inspires me, then this is definitely black. I loved it even before the move but a perfect match took place in the cultural capital.

Let’s talk a little about Russia, or rather our fashion industry. Do you think we have a chance to reach a new level in the current conditions?

Globally unlikely, but within the country – yes. In general, I believe that our people are very enterprising in conditions of stress. Some constraints only inspire creativity. Another issue is that there are many nuances that do not depend on us. It is still difficult with production and factories in Russia, there is no necessary equipment.

It is almost impossible to make good shoes. When we do over-the-knee boots (Vicky has his own brand, SXSLVT, which he launched last year. note. ed.), they broke their heads on how to make the cloak longer. Most factories don’t have the right pads.

Can you name your three favorite Russian brands?

I love what Ushatava does. They could only clinch the money, but instead they chose a more difficult but correct path. The guys invest huge sums in shows, shoots and collectibles. They hired Sanan Gasanov as an occasional beauty designer. It is worthy of respect. I really like YULIAWAVE too. Sure it’s expensive but you get what you pay for. All right, Vereja from Igor Andreev! It’s not my style at all but it looks insanely cool.

And top 3 stylists?

I really follow people as a personal brand, not business. I believe a stylist should look cool on his own and not remain the so-called gray cardinal of the industry. But this is my picture of the world and it doesn’t have to be close to others.

By the way, many do not deliberately follow other stylists in order to clear the creative space. How do you feel about it?

Yes, sometimes being vigilant works against you. But this is normal. We are all inspired by the same things. For example, we recently did a Japan-inspired shot and I posted a “circle” on Telegram. And it started! In the comments they wrote that we bought from them, that we took from others. In general, everyone has different connotations. But the paradox is that we did not receive anything from anyone, it was already set aside in the lower cortex. You cannot reinvent the wheel. Better to rethink the old than to find some kind of severe krinzh.

How do you choose who to work with?

I worked with everybody when I was less famous. I prefer not to do it now. Communication with the client is very important in a stylist’s work, if it’s not there write it down. Only some people need the fact that there is a person dressing it. But that doesn’t work. Any collaboration requires feedback and participation. If the client sits back and says “like/dislike”, I can hardly work with him.

Personal styling is quite a long and laborious task. From the first moment, as if with the click of a finger, nothing will happen. Knowing only the client’s hobbies and interests, you cannot create the ideal style for him in a month. Here we had a match with Ksyusha Shipilova on this topic. We’ve been working together for almost a year and we’re still trying new things. Some things suit him, some don’t. I want to add something, something to it. A good result is achieved only by trial and error.

And the last question: What is fashion for you?

Quite simply, this is my life.