Artistic director Alessandro Michele was instrumental in repopulating Gucci with the general public. From January 2015 to November 2022 he was its discreet artistic director, proposing fashion that mixes eras and genres in an exquisitely cadaverous way. The resurgence of interest in horsebit loafers is him, especially thanks to a fur-lined mule version. And it was he too who managed to attract Jared Leto and Harry Styles as ambassadors. Whispered for a long time in the sector, his departure was formalized in the autumn of 2022, without his replacement being named immediately. So much so that in January 2023 the Gucci men’s autumn-winter 2023-2024 show took place without anyone coming to say goodbye at the end. The style seemed almost minimalist compared to the times of the Roman Alessandro Michele, a sign of a desire to move on. And to better state it, the Florentine maison has just appointed Sabato De Sarno as the new creative director on January 28, 2023 (at the end of the haute couture fashion week). And if his name doesn’t mean anything to you, that’s normal, but he won’t be unknown to you for long.
Who is Sabato De Sarno, Gucci’s new artistic director appointed for 2023?
Come to think of it, even fashion lovers didn’t know Alessandro Michele before his appointment in 2015. However, the choice of this almost anonymous man pushed the maison thanks to his creations, without it being based on a cult of personality (a unlike many of its counterparts…). Gucci tries again by nominating a creative from the shadows, rather than a young designer who has already launched his own brand, as is often the case with the competition.
Sabato De Sarno, a 39-year-old Neapolitan, began working at Prada in 2003 as an assistant pattern maker. He then worked for Dolce & Gabbana in 2008, before joining Valentino in 2009. Gradually he made his career, first in knitwear then coordinating men’s collections, before becoming design directorthen it cures the image of this line as well, until it becomes the fashion director prêt-à-porter collections for men and women, under the artistic direction of Pierpaolo Piccioli. If in recent seasons we have seen pink Barbie everywhere, it is also thanks to Sabato De Sarno.
The latter just expressed his delight at being named head of Gucci in a January 28, 2023 press release:
“I am deeply honored to have been chosen as Creative Director of Gucci. I am proud to become part of a house with such an extraordinary history and heritage, which over the years has been able to welcome and preserve values in which I identify. I am moved and eager to share my creative vision for the brand. »
Gucci, the hen in the golden loafers of the Kering luxury group
The Gucci maison belongs to the Kering group (formerly Printemps Pinault Redoute) of which it is the main hen with golden eggs (2,581 million euros in turnover in the third quarter of 2022), far ahead of the Saint Laurent sisters (916 million in turnover) and Bottega Veneta (437 million euros in turnover). LVMH’s main competitor reported revenues in the third quarter of 2022 up by +23% compared to the previous quarter and by +14% compared to the third quarter of 2021. In the third quarter of 2022, Gucci’s revenues therefore reached 2,581 million euros in sales , up by +18% compared to the previous quarter and by +9% compared to the third quarter of 2021. A sign that the accumulation of health, ecological and political crises has only increased sales of the house of the golden loafers. But the departure of Alessandro Michele foreshadowed a slowdown in interest in Gucci.
In the light of these data, we therefore understand the enthusiasm of François-Henri Pinault, (President and CEO of Kering, the group that owns Gucci), who has just expressed in the press release of this appointment:
“One hundred and two years after Guccio Gucci opened his first boutique in Florence, Gucci is one of the most iconic, important and influential luxury houses in the world. With Sabato De Sarno as Creative Director, we are confident that Gucci will continue to influence fashion and culture with highly desirable products and collections and bring a unique contemporary look to modern luxury. »
It remains to be seen what Sabato De Sarno will come up with to continue selling moccasins like pancakes…
Title of the photo: portrait for the press of Sabato De Sarno, by Riccardo Raspa.
We need you to build the future of Madmoizelle: take part in our survey!
Source: Madmoizelle
Mary Crossley is an author at “The Fashion Vibes”. She is a seasoned journalist who is dedicated to delivering the latest news to her readers. With a keen sense of what’s important, Mary covers a wide range of topics, from politics to lifestyle and everything in between.
