The lion, wolf and leopard heads of Schiaparelli’s procession scandalize Reti and Peta

After the men’s fashion week that shook the western fashion capitals New York, London, Milan and then Paris, the city of light continues to vibrate with style for the haute couture week from 23 to 26 January 2023. Schiaparelli, director artist Daniel Roseberry , opened the festivities with a thunderous procession. It’s hard not to notice the dress adorned with a large-than-life leopard head sported by the top Shalom Harlow, the wolf one by Naomi Campbell and the lion one by Irina Shayk. Also, while the latter was on the catwalk, we were able to see Kylie Jenner in the front row wearing a variation of this feline creation.

Why did lion, leopard and wolf heads march for Schiaparelli?

Highly publicized, these three looks have sparked and divided social networks. Many misinformed Internet users wondered if it was taxidermy. Gold, is to misunderstand the work of Daniel Roseberry and Schiaparelli Laboratories who regularly enjoy reproducing larger-than-life details of flora and fauna, including human organs, in order to divert them to unexpected places to create surreal works, in line with the DNA of the house. We can especially mention the golden lung dress worn by Bella Hadid at the Cannes Film Festival or the one that breastfeeds. Only this time it was a tribute to Divine Comedy of Dante. In this 14th-century Italian poem, the Italian author stages the Underworld, where one is supposed to face different terrors, including a lion (to symbolize pride), a leopard (lust) and a she-wolf (greed). .

The wolf, leopard and lion head dresses that eclipsed everything at the Schiaparelli show

But even the most knowledgeable people haven’t necessarily appreciated the immense work of faux fur embroidery to give life to these hyper-realistic animalier dresses. In fact, even if they are not real heads, many criticize Schiaparelli through his creations for having contributed to the enchantment of hunting trophies and poaching. These three steps have almost overshadowed the rest of the collection, which has reinterpreted in a particular way the shape of the corset bottle of the historical perfume of the house, Schocking!. One thinks in particular of the vintage mother-of-pearl corset with crystals on hand-modeled leather and 24-karat gold leaf, associated with a champagne-colored liquid velvet skirt (step 9), or the inlaid bustier on a skirt entirely embroidered with pearls (step 13 ).

Even the hellish appearance of artist Doja Cat, showered in 30,000 scarlet Swarovski crystals by star makeup artist Pat McGrath and her team to sit front row at the show, wasn’t enough to make people forget the fake animal head controversy .

Peta France denounces the animal suffering behind Schiaparelli’s controversial looks

While the Schiaparelli house communicated that no animal suffered from these creations, Peta France wanted to react. The association for the defense of animals thus wanted to remember the angry truths, tweeting:

“While art, including fashion, can be subjective, Schiaparelli’s claim that ‘no animals were harmed’ in the making of this lion-head dress worn by Kylie Jenner is objectively false. . In fact, silkworms were boiled alive and sheep were tapped for their fleeces to obtain the silk and wool used in the making of these faux animal heads.Schiaparelli should turn to non-animal source materials.Anyone concerned that these outfits will encourage Trophy hunting should also give a thought to the animals that have truly suffered for this look and the countless individuals who have been locked up, maimed, abused and killed for the fashion. »

Whether they consider themselves works of art or not, these creations at least have the merit of resting the thorny issue of animal exploitation in fashion, real or (un)simulated. In fact, even when it is a simulacrum of a hunting trophy, as if to denounce its grotesque nature (coming face to face with these animal heads reminds us where to find most of the real fur coats quite common for customers of the ‘high fashion), we’ll note that these 3 controversial looks still come fromanimal exploitation much less often denounced as such: that of silkworms, sheep for wool and other cattle for their skin. A speciesist double standard that does not intend to surpass either the textile industry or the high fashion craftsmanship.

Front page photo credit: Instagram screenshot.

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