There has been a lot of talk lately about the use of scrubs. So much so that they are sometimes often abused, which can cause side effects that are absolutely opposite to what is desired. “If we misuse certain exfoliants, such as physical or certain alpha and beta hydroxy acids, we can cause a weakening of the skin’s hydrolipidic barrier, leading to acne, overproduction of sebum, tissue drying or skin hypersensitivity. “explains Elisabeth San Gregorio, technical director of the company Medik8.
This can happen if products with a high concentration of ingredients such as glycolic acid, lactic acid or salicylic acid, among others, are applied in a very repetitive way. Instead, a new family of acids has arrived in the world of cosmetics – polyhydroxy acids – and in this stands gluconolactone, which is increasingly present in more formulations. “Gluconolactone is the ideal and gentlest way to daily renew skin cells, gently exfoliate and help improve the skin barrier without causing sensitivity, providing anti-aging benefits similar to those of AHAs and BHAs, but without all the potential side effects” , says Estefanía Nieto, technical director of Omorovicza.
This principle, which should be on the ingredient list as ‘Gluconolactone’, its name in English, occurs naturally in the skin and provides powerful antioxidant protection. Since it is an acid typical of the human body, the skin therefore absorbs it optimally. And it’s perfect for this time of year!
The benefits of gluconolactone on the skin
According to clinical studies and several reference sources, such as the British Journal of Dermatology, gluconolactone can improve the function of the stratum corneum barrier and prevent skin irritation; works synergistically with vitamin A (retinol, retinaldehyde and other members of the retinoid family) and enhances its effectiveness. In addition, it gives results comparable to those of glycolic acid and in addition it does not increase sensitivity to the sun, which is so important at this time of year. “Working with this principle, we realize that there is significantly less damage in the PHA treated areas compared to the potential irritation caused by, say, an alpha hydroxy acid,” analyzes Raquel González, director of education at Perricone MD.
Where to find?
Some of our favorite products that contain it? The first of these is Medik8 Press & Glow Toner, a daily exfoliating toner containing 5.5% gluconolactone, in addition to nopal extract, an enzyme activator that increases the rate of exfoliation, regenerates and soothes aloe vera, and açaí extract to potentially reduce and prevent inflammatory processes.
You’ll also find it in the Perricone MD Exfoliating Peel, an exfoliating serum that contains gluconolactone, hyaluronic acid, copper complex and L-carnitine to reveal smooth, radiant, younger-looking skin with balanced moisture levels.
This ingredient is also present in the SEBIACLEAR Serum of: SVR (with a gluconolactone concentration of 14%), which will help you remove blemishes, blackheads and residual blemishes, leaving the skin clean and smooth.
Source: Marie Claire
