Subtropical forests, volcanic pools on the beach, the wine of the same name – you will soon fall in love with Madeira

Oh the folly of youth. When I first visited Madeira some 30 years ago, it seemed to be the island of the elderly. Content to enjoy the winter sun, these elderly visitors seemed reluctant to rise from their lounge chairs; A G&T was never far away.

Things are different now, as I realize after a few wonderful days in the mountains and forests of the interior.

First, I’m getting past super fit sixties on all the routes and struggling to keep up. What is happening?

Wine, coffee and dessert in the capital, Funchal. Here Emma checks in at the Castanheiro Boutique Hotel

I ask Miguel, the manager of my hotel, the Quinta das Vinhas, what has changed over the years. It is located in a vineyard and has been welcoming tourists for decades. “Nowadays, travelers of all ages come here,” he says. “Yes, we also attract the older market, but the over-60s want adventure and activity, not just sitting by the pool sipping Madeira wine.”

So early the next morning I join a jeep tour heading north from the Quinta in the southwest corner. We start out quite leisurely, winding over roads and tunnels carved into the hillside.

As we sail along the coast, we stop in the pretty coastal town of Ponta do Sol and do nothing more than take a few photos. So far so good.

Upon reaching Seixal Beach, a handful of people strip naked to wallow in warm, tranquil volcanic pools. They are surrounded by jet black rock formations that protect them from the seething fury of the surrounding sea.

Then it’s time to drive to Laurisilva, the largest laurel forest in the world. Our guide Diogo shoots us at breakneck speed through old, almost vertical town streets.

Our stomachs are turning – it’s clearly to prepare for the off-road experience of driving over rocks and through streams in the laurel forest. Classified as a natural heritage site by UNESCO, it is a green world in itself with gnarled trees, lichens and mosses.

Laurisilva, above, is the largest laurel forest in the world. Emma writes: “Classified as a natural heritage by UNESCO, with gnarled trees, lichens and mosses it is a green world in itself”

One of Emma’s accommodations is in Quinta das Vinhas (above)

Looking at the lush flora, we are reminded that Madeira is officially Portuguese, but geographically closer to Africa, with a subtropical climate. We are surrounded by giant ferns, banana and passion fruit trees, hydrangea bushes and geraniums.

Our drive home rewards us with breathtaking views of rugged mountains and wide gorges. We get off the jeep to walk into an extinct volcanic crater before arriving at another green oasis.

This is the enchanted Fanal Forest, a misty, otherworldly place with trees estimated to be over 500 years old. The crooked branches of Ocotea foetens, also known as stinkwood, conjure up ghostly shapes even during the day.

Emma walks to the “gorgeous” Risco Falls (above). “The sound of the water calms us,” writes Emma

More mountain adventures await the next morning, this time on foot. We are all still tired, but walking in such a lush environment with warm water dripping from the vegetation is refreshing.

And it blows away the cobwebs after a night of Madeira wine and that other local favorite, poncha – a potent concoction of rum, honey and orange or lemon juice. We walk along the levadas, intelligent irrigation canals that run through the north of the island.

They were built centuries ago to carry water from the mountains to the fields in the drier south and are still used today. After some breath-taking climbs, we reach our destination, the beautiful Risco Falls, where the stream gently plunges 100 meters below. The ripple of the water calms our spirits.

Our efforts are rewarded with an afternoon at a spa. We drive to the capital Funchal and check in at the Castanheiro Boutique Hotel. Here, a sauna and massage soothe our aching limbs and we swim in the rooftop pool overlooking the city skyline.

The next morning I stroll by the sea, taste dried bananas at the food market and make a coffee stop on Rua Santa Maria, where the wooden doors are decorated with street art. In the evening we eat at Ákua, a fish restaurant. The menu includes tuna tartare, ginger and cilantro razor clams, and fried cod tacos, followed by red snapper.

My white chocolate passion fruit mousse is served with a black olive caramel sauce – a surprisingly delicious combination. Just like our all-action adventure in the woods.

I leave this beautiful island wishing I had more time as there is so much to do in Madeira. Paddleboarding, surfing, kayaking and canyoning await my next visit – I just need my muscles to recover first.

Beautiful scenery: One of Emma’s coastal stops is Seixal Beach, pictured above

Emma writes: “I leave this beautiful island wishing I had more time because there is so much to do in Madeira.” Pictured above is Ponta do Sol