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Follow in the footsteps of legends in the home of golf: an unforgettable weekend on the mighty New Course of St. Andrews (with a stay in a good hotel, just a strong five-iron…)

Breathe deeply. And one more. One last look at the flag. And with that I pulled the club back and gave my driver a squeeze.

The ball flew off the face with a ‘ping’ and sailed high into the air, a fantastic shot – if only it had gone in the right direction…

“For!” I roared, red with embarrassment and frustration.

There was a giggle behind me and I turned to see my three friends doubled over in hysterics.

I stormed off beaming and a few minutes later found my ball perfectly in the fairway of St. Andrews’ Old Course – the home of golf.

The beautiful St. Andrews Clubhouse is located next to the opening hole of the incredible New Course

Water plays a big part on the New Course, Ben explains, with gaps along the Eden Estuary

Water plays a big part on the New Course, Ben explains, with gaps along the Eden Estuary

The sun rises and the flag dances in the wind on a beautiful day in St.  Andrews - the home of golf

The sun rises and the flag dances in the wind on a beautiful day in St. Andrews – the home of golf

If I had played the Old Course it would have been a fantastic shot. As it was, I played the New Course – a championship course that runs parallel to its famous neighbor.

I pulled out an 8-iron, hit a shot and temporarily realized a lifelong dream: golf on the Old Course.

We flew into Edinburgh and drove about 80 minutes north to spend a few days in one of the best and certainly most famous golf destinations in the world.

Golf has been played on the golf courses of St. Andrews played. The history and traditions of the game, as well as the achievements of great golfers, are deeply embedded in the city’s DNA.

Of course we tried – and failed – to get a tee time on the Old Course using the familiar voting system.

While disappointing, it’s still a testament to this golfing mecca that anyone (with a handicap of 36 or less) can play the Old Course by winning the voting lottery or camping at the starter’s hut from 3am and waiting for fallout.

So it was out with the old and in with the new as we strolled through the beautiful, undulating fairways and the splendor of St. Andrews’ new golf course – which was an absolute delight.

Even on a Sunday in winter, the fairways were immaculate, the bunkers soft and the greens “absolutely new” – as a man in the bar told me the night before. He was not wrong.

The St Andrews Links complex has seven golf courses. Six of these, including the old and new courses, are in one location, while the seventh, the dramatic Castle Course, is just down the road.

Like excited schoolboys, we began our golf odyssey, weaving from tee to green, weaving through the cavernous bunkers and often unable to escape their huge rock walls.

There were good and bad shots, birdies and bogeys and we were overwhelmed by the spectacular course with the famous old city in the background. It felt like a privilege to be there.

Locals recommend putting everything around the greens as the fairways are very well maintained and the greens are mountainous.

The greens at St Andrews are legendary, says Ben: beautifully manicured and shockingly fast

The greens at St Andrews are legendary, says Ben: beautifully manicured and shockingly fast

Treacherous bunkers guard the greens and woods punish golfers who stray from the line

Treacherous bunkers guard the greens and woods punish golfers who stray from the line

St.  Andrews represents links golf at its best and is one of the best venues in the world

St. Andrews represents links golf at its best and is one of the best venues in the world

The undulating fairways and well-protected greens make the New Course a classic St.  Andrews test

The undulating fairways and well-protected greens make the New Course a classic St. Andrews test

More than once we’ve seen a ball fly up a huge slope, but not make it to the top, turn around and return to the players’ feet. Mind you, hilarity.

A birdie on the 170-yard par-3 fifth hole sweetened the beer a bit and went a long way to dispel the bad taste of some of my wilder shots.

The New Course was built in 1895 by the Green’s manager Old Tom Morris and is often referred to as the “oldest new golf course in the world.”

It’s also generally accepted to be a bit harder than the old one – and a good clutch test.

Apart from the lightning-fast greens and treacherous bunkers, the biggest danger is the wind, which whips around and wreaks havoc on club selection.

The sea also plays a big part on the incredible 220 meter par-3 ninth, which runs alongside the Eden Estuary. Don’t go left.

We passed through the forest of pit bushes – another hazard that plays a role on every hole and should be avoided like the plague.

I enjoyed the treeless nature of the course, which allowed you to get away with errant shots…sometimes.

The sun shone and the wind died down and we were amazed to be playing in t-shirts in Scotland in November.

As the shadows lengthened, the clubhouse came into view. We stood at the last tee and looked at a very familiar face. The 1st and 18th fairways of the Old Course – the widest fairway in golf – were deserted.

We played the last and hugged on the 18th green. It was a full day that we would relive again and again in the evening.

After a few quick pints we retired to the beautiful Hotel du Vin, about a strong five-iron from the Old Course’s hallowed 18th green.

Hotel du Vin - just a stone's throw from the 18th green on the St.  Andrews Old Course

Hotel du Vin – just a stone’s throw from the 18th green on the St. Andrews Old Course

The beautiful view from the luxurious rooms –

The beautiful view from the luxurious rooms – “the perfect place to relax after a day of golf”

Leather armchairs, super-king beds and Egyptian cotton linens are standard

Leather armchairs, super-king beds and Egyptian cotton linens are standard

Our elegant room, one of 42, had spectacular sea views and the property was perfectly located in the heart of the old town.

The walk-in rain shower, large flat screen and super king size bed with Egyptian cotton sheets were all very welcome as we ditched our golf gear and relaxed in our new, stylish surroundings.

As evening came, we dined on delicious steaks at the exceptional French Bistro du Vin, the hotel’s jewel.

Exhausted, we ordered enough to feed an army, especially enjoying the whiskey chilled salmon and king prawns.

The French onion soup is also highly recommended and the quiche with rosary goat cheese and caramelized onions was divine.

When we learned that their butcher caters to His Majesty, we dined like kings on tender 21-day-aged fillet steak and 28-day-aged ribeye, accompanied by bottles of full-blood Chianti.

The hotel's restaurant is the

The hotel’s restaurant is the “jewel in the crown” and uses meat from the king’s butcher

Breakfast was served with beautiful sea views over the dramatic coastline

Breakfast was served with beautiful sea views over the dramatic coastline

Private dinners are possible as the hotel hosts functions and events

Private dinners are possible as the hotel offers functions and functions

The beautiful bathrooms have a walk-in rain shower

The beautiful bathrooms have a walk-in rain shower

We ended our gastronomic feast with burnt Basque cheesecake, followed by creamy Irish coffee, before retreating to the bar for cocktails and relaxing in leather armchairs.

It had been a thirsty day and we drank late into the night.

Midnight came and went and we ended up back on the 18th fairway of the Old Course.

We crossed the Swilcan Bridge and relived the memories of our own time and those of the golf ghosts of old.

The route was bathed in moonlight and our laughter was carried out of the city and floated over the Black Sea.

What a trip. What a place. What a day to be alive.

TRAVEL FACTS

The new course at St Andrews Links starts at £65 until 31 March 2024, then £92 from 1 to 14 April, then £140 from 15 April to 13 October, and then £100 from 14 October and 30 November.

Double rooms at Hotel Du Vin start at £149 from January. You can find detailed information by clicking here.

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