Immerse yourself in Swim City: Immerse yourself in Zurich’s pools and lakes for a city break with that certain something

The swimmer is on top of the bridge. The river, far below, glistens in the sun.

A crowd gathers and watches with a mixture of fear and excitement. With a wink he jumps about 10 meters high – there is a massive crash, seconds later his triumphant ascent follows downstream.

Cheers erupted from us and the crowd, young and old, spread out on the deck of the Unterer Letten river baths, one of Zurich’s river baths.

I came to the city for a very different kind of vacation. One that puts the spotlight on swimming in those spectacular pools — lidos built into the fast-flowing rivers and lakes — and eschewing museums and churches for something less cerebral but no less wonderful.

Zurich has a soft spot for water. It is home to more than 1,200 fountains, all flowing with fresh drinking water. Public baths dot the shores of Lake Zurich and its rivers are home to some of the most spectacular, not to mention historic, bathing spots in Switzerland.

The Romans started the city’s first baths on today’s Weinplatz. Long after they left, the trend picked up again and in the 20th century there were ten “box baths”, wooden box baths designed to improve the citizens’ well-being and keep them clean.

These days, it can sometimes seem as if the entire city dweller has taken a vacation together to sit and lounge at their favorite waterfront spot.

After the heroics of the local daredevils, I choose the safer option and follow the path to the right-hand entrance of the Unterer Letten river pool.

Zurich’s oldest seaside resort, dating back to 1909, runs parallel to the Limmat’s main course.

The current is fast and the pool acts like a slide, with swimmers sliding down the stairs at one end and being washed off at the other. It has the power to make even the most rudimentary front crawler look Olympic.

The water has a wonderful 24 degrees and soon I will be sailing with the Limmat in my back. But a challenge comes: how to get out. I opt for the side steps – but they quickly go out of reach. So instead I go straight to the tower gate where the pool ends.

I come to an awkward halt before floundering up and out as the current rages beneath me. I turn to my friends, laugh and go back to the beginning. It seems I’ve found the perfect city break, and it’s only just begun.

The next morning, as Lake Zurich glistens behind the balcony of my room in the beautiful Bellrive au Lac Hotel Ameron, I cross the street to the seaside resort of Utoquai.

Above is the river bath Unterer Letten, the oldest river bath complex in the city

Joe says the current at the Unterer Letten river pool “has the power to make even the most rudimentary freestyle swim look Olympic”

Built in 1890, the seaside resort also has separate men’s and women’s pools and a cafe. I go out on one of the wonderful upper decks for an hour of yoga before breakfast. I twist into a dove-like pose as sparrows fly between our rugs, the sun already shining relentlessly.

Then, sweaty from the effort, I dive into the lake and calmly swim to the nearest pontoon, where I pull out and enjoy the view.

Villas along the coast to the south. To the east is another indoor pool, Seebad Enge, with fountains shooting high into the summer sky. Her cool hug calls to me, especially since Seebad Enge also rents out stand-up paddleboards – the perfect way to get further out on the water while enjoying a workout.

Above is the seaside resort of Utoquai, where Joe does some yoga before breakfast before the swim

So, after a quick mezze lunch on the roof of the classy department store Globus, I’m back on the water. Despite the fresh breeze, I manage to stay upright and paddle around the fountains while the locals bake on the deck and sip from sprinklers of white wine in the sun. When my arms get tired and my thighs burn, I go back to the water and go for a cool swim before dinner.

The next morning, with the sun shining through the curtains, I have to take a long swim to work off the five-course meal I enjoyed at Coco, one of Zurich’s most popular restaurants.

This time I walk 15 minutes south to try a new place.

Joe stays at the Bellrive au Lac Hotel Ameron (above) where he has a view of Lake Zurich from his room

“Kids splash themselves with desolation while parents lie under umbrellas,” says Joe van Tiefenbrunnen lido (above)

The Tiefenbrunnen lido is suitable for all types of swimmers, both with diving towers and easy access options. Children splash around while parents lie under umbrellas.

As I walk out, I do a lazy chest beat and reflect on a magical 48 hours.

Whether you’re looking for wild rapids or the tranquil delights of a lakeside dip, Zurich is nothing short of a swimming paradise.