I like snow. Nothing excites me more than waking up to a sparkling white blanket on the rooftops and hearing that special silence of the city after the snowfall.
to ski? Not so much. My only experience with the sport was when I was 13. One T-bar ride and I went down the slopes vowing never again.
This time we went to Arosa in Switzerland for a skiing holiday. I chose to travel by train – a 13-hour journey from London via Paris and Zurich, with the last leg on a small local train climbing the hills.
Snow finally came on this last part of the trip.
Like many ski resorts in Europe, Arosa has had punctual snow this winter, but when I got to the Tschuggen Grand Hotel, the snowflakes were piling up.
Alexandra Shulman headed to the ski resort of Arosa (pictured) in Switzerland for a ski-free holiday
Uplifting: Alexandra checked into the Tschuggen Grand Hotel in Arosa. The hotel’s cable car takes guests up into the mountains and offers spectacular views
The Grand is a local institution.
It may be an uninspired, bland building, but once inside, you enter what a friend of mine describes as “deep trash” – in other words, great comfort. Beautiful Hermes upholstery, painted leather walls, Murano glass lighting.
While most guests come for the slopes, the hotel offers a variety of activities and adventures as part of the Moving Mountains Wellness Program.
When I woke up the first morning, it was still snowing, so it was the perfect opportunity to visit the spa built into the hill.
Daylight pours in through large sail-shaped windows that glow at night like Chagall’s stained glass windows in a chapel. How wonderful it was to enjoy a massage and then swim in the outdoor pool which is kept deliciously warm so you can paddle while watching the snow fall.
The hotel features “beautiful Hermes upholstery, painted leather walls, [and] Murano glass lighting
Alexandra says of the Tschuggen Spa (pictured): “Daylight pours in through large sail-shaped windows that glow at night like Chagall stained glass on a chapel.”
Alexandra says it was “nice” to enjoy a massage at the spa (above).
On my second day, I woke up to a scene from a Swiss box of chocolates. The sun was shining on the mountains as I visited the small town of Arosa before boarding the Tschuggen Express, the hotel’s own cable car, which takes guests up the mountain to a traditional cafe with fantastic views.
My own exercise was a snowshoe hike. As a beginner, it took me a while to master the step – a slightly curved bump.
It’s a popular activity in the area, with tours that take you along the ridges or through the forest. With only one fall, I thought I did pretty well – well enough to feel entitled to enjoy the five-course tasting menu at the hotel’s two-Michelin-starred La Brezza restaurant that night.
One of the rooms of the hotel. While most guests come for the slopes, the hotel offers a variety of activities and adventures as part of the Moving Mountains Wellness Program
Alexandra sampled the five-course tasting menu at two-Michelin-star La Brezza restaurant (above)
While dining in the main dining room (above), Alexandra found the staff nothing but friendly and welcoming.
Alexandra (pictured) says she enjoyed an “excellent reset” in Arosa.
Dining alone can be daunting, but whether you’re indulging in the dizzying selection at the breakfast buffet, dining in the main dining room, or enjoying an after-dinner drink in the cigar room, the staff have always been friendly and welcoming.
Visiting a ski resort and not skiing gives you plenty of time for other activities like ice baths.
And so it happened that at 08:00 the hotel manager drove me – equipped with towels and bathrobes – to Untersee, a small lake at the foot of the town. After he broke the ice, we headed down to our bathing suits and he held my hand to lead me inside and warned me not to panic. It was freezing cold, but not completely uncomfortable waist deep in -11C water.
I lasted about 90 seconds (which I guess isn’t bad for a newbie) before rushing to my clothes.
Did I feel refreshed by that cold bath? Probably not. Did I feel like I accomplished something? Certainly.
And would I go on a snow holiday again without skis? Absolutely. The mountain air and the incredible landscape gave me a great sense of well-being and an excellent reset in just three days.
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James is an author and travel journalist who writes for The Fashion Vibes. With a love for exploring new cultures and discovering unique destinations, James brings his readers on a journey with him through his articles.
