These slopes are all mine: enjoy the solitude of the mountain at Trysil in Norway after beating the crowds with an early morning ski pass

The icy wilderness stretches to an awe-inspiring horizon as the rising sun paints the cloud-strewn sky with ever-changing shades of purple and gold.

I watch the mesmerizing climb from the top of a mountain in Trysil, Norway, and a blissfully empty ski slope below, the corduroy-patterned surface gently blowing.

Snow is a given in Norway; there is no crossing of fingers and it is precisely this guarantee that instills confidence when booking a holiday.

It’s a privilege to sit here before the resort wakes up and I’m determined to enjoy the panorama and the tranquility. Moments like this are rare; a comforting reminder that no matter what life throws at us, some things are solid and permanent.

Virgin Snow: Early morning ski passes are available twice a week, giving skiers two hours of skiing before the lifts open for everyone else (file photo)

For me, a skiing holiday is above all medicine for body and soul – and there is no better tonic than this landscape.

Inevitably, I am jolted out of my reverie by a tug on the arm from one of my impatient children. Anyone with teenagers will be surprised that they get up so early. But the promise of food — especially that which sizzles in a pan — is a great motivator, and further down the mountain is Marielle’s, where a hearty breakfast awaits.

But first there are two more hours of skiing before the lifts open for everyone. Early morning ski passes are available twice a week and are well worth the price. What bliss to race through the virgin snow with nothing but my children and birdsong. I’m not one to shout, but I’m definitely looking forward to it.

Rachel says the resort “feels remote and rugged while also being safe and manageable.”

The picturesque town of Trysil is bisected by the meandering Trysilva River

The slopes are wide and spacious and run through quiet pine forests. Imagine having it all to yourself. Snow fell last night and it sparkles in the branches of the trees, adding even more magic to this bright blue morning. It’s a thrill – if your skiing is up to it – to rush into the forest and find a way through it. My boys keep disappearing to get further down the slopes with daring leaps. I’m brave enough to nibble on the edges on my own, but still feel the excitement and satisfaction of pushing my ski limits.

Halfway we turn around and stop for a quiet drink. Below us lies the charming town of Trysil, bisected by the meandering Trysilva River, glistening silver in the morning light. Further on we stop again, this time to watch a team of Norwegian school children practicing slalom in front of the school. “It’s better than waiting until 7am from Clapham Junction,” jokes one of my jealous sons.

Here’s a tip. At Easter, the UK’s two-week public holiday overlaps with Norway’s, but only during the second half of the holiday. Plan your trip well and you can enjoy your vacation here while the Norwegians are still working and at school.

Rachel stays at the Radisson Blu Mountain Resort (above), the largest hotel on the Hoyfjellssenter side of the mountain

The hotel’s spa features indoor and outdoor pools and hot tubs that overlook a forest

The smell of wood smoke rising from Marielle’s is reminiscent of breakfast. The boys devour toasted sandwiches with delicious crispy bacon and poached eggs in minutes. I had a delicious creamy Scandinavian yogurt with fruit and nuts, followed by locally caught smoked salmon on toast. Then we slumbered in the morning sun and sipped extravagantly thick hot chocolate as the resort came alive.

Advanced skiers will find little challenge at Trysil, but it’s a great adventure playground for families and beginners. Somehow it feels remote and rugged, yet safe and manageable at the same time. There is enough good skiing to keep the more experienced skier entertained for a week. Teenagers who study at the ski school in the morning can impress their parents in the afternoon by showing off their new skills on the jumps and obstacle races at the many amusement parks scattered around the resort.

There comes a time when kids start whining about being left skiing with their friends instead of Mom and Dad. It’s understandably nerve-wracking for some parents, but the skiing here is on two sides of a big mountain and easy to ski – so it might just be the place to take a deep breath and spread your wings . They come back full of tales of nonsense that will last them through dinner and beyond.

Après-ski revolves around the two large Radisson Hotels. Modern and functional, with a family-friendly atmosphere and sophisticated reception areas, they are not lacking in style and charm. We stayed at the Radisson Blu Mountain Resort, the largest hotel on the Hoyfjellssenter side of the mountain, with a beautiful ski-in-ski-out location surrounded by gentle slopes. An elevated glass walkway connects the main restaurant and spa building to the accommodation wings, where the rustic, chalet-style rooms are cozy and welcoming.

Above is the hotel’s high glass walkway that connects the main restaurant and spa building with the accommodation wings.

Cosy: Rachel says her favorite spot at the hotel is the Kubben Lobby Bar (above)

Our apartment, with kitchen facilities, a double room and a separate room with two bunk beds, was very comfortable, although compact. There was enough space to hang ski gear without cluttering up the living space, and the small bathroom had one of the most powerful showers I’ve ever seen.

The spa is spectacular, with indoor and outdoor pools and hot tubs overlooking a forest and the short descent to a button lift. After 18:00 it is taboo for children to give their parents some rest – but it never got rough.

Just below reception is a great area for teenagers with a pool table and games room. Dinner in the main restaurant offers an excellent buffet or you can enjoy delicious bistro dishes in the apres-ski bar Stabben.

But my favorite place is the cozy, wood-paneled lobby bar, Kubben, with its breathtaking mountain views through large glass walls and a modernist glass fireplace. It is the perfect place to drink wine and feel warm and sheltered from the icy wilderness that is so awe-inspiring at dawn.