True stories of travelers: why you should see Dagestan to fall in love with life again?

There are many places in the world where millions of people have added photos to their wish cards. Among the most common are the Maldives, Japan, France and hundreds of other destinations. However, domestic tourism is also very rich in terms of routes. And I think the most underestimated is Dagestan.

In general, in recent years, the republic has become a new tourist center in Russia. People go there for picturesque mountain landscapes, walks in lost cities and even gastronomic exploration. But more after that.

Experienced traveler, gastronomy watcher and founder of @bemine_dagestan, Daria Kasatkina, has visited Dagestan more than 10 times and prepared a short republic guide for The Fashion Vibes. What to see, where to live and how to go – read in the material.

Daria Kasatkina, food commentator @tasty_choiz

Why go to Dagestan?

First, of course, you will not find such nature anywhere else – incredible landscapes, mountains, canyons, fresh air, terraces comparable to those in Bali. Every year, more and more travelers fall in love with Dagestan – the originality, atmosphere and hospitality of the local people fascinate. But do not think that the republic consists of only mountains. The city of Makhachkala, the capital of the region, is slowly developing. And already, St. Petersburg-level gastronomic projects, underground establishments, authentic showrooms and brands, and incredible specialty coffee shops.

On my first trip to Dagestan (it was January 3, 2021) I had no idea where I was. I wasn’t expecting anything but this trip turned my whole life upside down. Now my team and I do entertainment media in Dagestan – @bemine_dagestan. And I’ve even done tours there over the past year, so I’ve accumulated a lot of connections, experience and knowledge. I managed to unlock many places that were completely obscure for the city and the region. Therefore, I will mention below some lifehacks and information that may be useful for those going to Dagestan for the first time and those who can’t see what I’ve accomplished the first time around.

Do not set expectations when going to this region, be light, flexible, respect its traditions, and then Dagestan will open from the most amazing and hospitable side.

Road and transportation

The fastest and most convenient way to reach Dagestan is by plane. There are direct flights from Moscow to Makhachkala every day – fly 3-3.5 hours. The price of tickets varies: for example, in the season, they can cost only 10 thousand rubles, and not there and back in the season – 6 thousand rubles.

Therefore, it is better to buy tickets in advance, it will definitely be more profitable. It is best to explore Dagestan with a driver-guide or car. There are many rental places in Makhachkala for those who want to drive on their own. It is very convenient to use Yandex.Maps and create routes, view photos and read reviews. There is Yandex.Taxi and Uber.

Accommodation in hotels and apartments

It all depends on the budget. Hotels can be found in the “Yandex.Travel” section both for 3,000 rubles per day and for 7. The price range is wide, carefully study what they offer. You can also find an apartment, Avito has a large selection. I lived in different places: from 2.5 thousand to 10 thousand per night, in the polar regions of the city, in apartments and studios, with or without a view. Some looked the same as in the photo, some were not. My friends made a beautiful apartment that I recommend to everyone – Soho Apartment. For accommodation in the mountains, it is better to consult the guides.

Food

In short, I advise you to try miracle and botishal (flat cakes with filling in the form of cheese, meat, herbs), khinkal (not to be confused with hinkali), kurze (reminiscent of dumplings) from national dishes. dumplings or khinkali), urbech (this is Caucasian “nutella”) and dried apricot porridge. All these specialties can be enjoyed at the Na Lermontova museum-restaurant, the more modern Every restaurant, or the authentic Papakha project.

If you want a modern flair in the city, head to Bisou Bisou bistro Druzhba. And in “Murrad Shashlyk” and Nomad, St. Petersburg-level gastronomy. In the capital of Dagestan, among other things, the cult of coffee is very developed, and there are many specialty coffee shops at every step. Oscar’s favorite V60 from “1930”, “Ray” in the central square.

When it comes to the mountains, there are not many options. Basically, you have to eat breakfast, lunch and dinner in guesthouses where the owners prepare their meals themselves. Gunib village is home to the famous Adat restaurant with a patio and stunning views.

Guide selection

Be extremely careful about this. I had many stories in my memory when the guides placed a family of eight in a room with the same number of single beds and a toilet. Always ask questions, ask to send everything, show, tell. A comment from the “I promise everything will be fine” category does not count, do not believe it. Per day, a guide with a car can charge from 10 to 16 thousand rubles for their services – in general, this is acceptable if you are traveling in a company of three or four people. And of course, one day in the mountains is not enough, you need to fly for at least three days because the distances between the locations are long and the road is tiring.

what to watch

In Makhachkala: take a walk on the central square and the embankment, go to the Second Market, see the Juma Mosque in the centre, and visit local museums if you’re in the mood.

If you want something modern, you should visit the TEMP Culture House, where showrooms, a lecture hall, a sandwich bar are gathered together, or you can even stay for a movie screening in the evenings.

mountains: You should definitely include Sulak Canyon in the mountain route – visit the observation point and take boats along the canyon. Worth seeing the village of Gunib and meeting the sunset at Aivazovsky Point, dedicate another day to a trip to the village of Khunzakh and don’t forget to go to the first coffee shop in the White Night mountains. If time permits, I recommend going to Goor village, my favorite place with its magnificent scenery and absolutely indescribable energy, but it is very difficult to get there and it is better to go with a guide.

The famous ghost village of Gamsutl is certainly remarkable, but the road to it can be quite difficult (about 1–1.5 hours by uphill walking and the same amount of return), plus it is unsafe due to the high tourist concentration. . For those who prefer unique places and do not want to go to tourist areas, I recommend the mountain village Stary Sivukh – integrity with nature is guaranteed. You can also visit Derbent (this is the oldest city in Russia).

Features of the republic: how to behave in the city and in the mountains, how to dress and other lifehacks

– Dress modestly. In summer it is better to wear shorts and skirts knee-length or lower, in the mountains it is especially important to cover your shoulders and legs.

– A small amount of money should be taken in cash. In the city there are no problems with the card, but in the mountains there are terminals that are not ubiquitous (paying by online transfer is always possible, but there may be problems with the Internet).

– On the territory of Dagestan all cellular providers work plus or minus, but Beeline and Megafon are best caught in the mountains.

Is it safe?

Favorite question of my friends, colleagues and most tourists. I feel completely safe there (she said blonde with green eyes). But in general, any tourist can feel safe if they learn about the specifics and rules of the area and treat the locals with respect.