This Dior show paid homage to Caterina de ‘Medici: enough to revisit your history lessons in style

Can a fashion show serve as a history lesson? Obviously not, but the show can still be interesting and make you want to (re) watch characters who have marked their time. This is the case of the Dior Spring-Summer 2023 fashion show, presented on 27 September 2022 in Paris.

What is the relationship between Caterina de Medici and a Dior show?

Maria Grazia Chiuri, artistic director of the Dior house, was inspired by the figure of Caterina de Medici, an Italian noblewoman who became queen of France from 1547 to 1559 through her marriage to Henry II. When she died in 1559, leaving her a widow, she wore only black as a sign of mourning, and for a time became regent of the kingdom of France (from late 1560 to mid-1563). Three of her children (out of ten) will follow one another on the throne of France: Francis II, Charles IX, Henry III, while her daughter Elizabeth will become Queen of Spain and Margaret will marry the future Henry IV and will impose herself as the famous Queen Margot. Caterina de ‘Medici is therefore a prominent figure of the sixteenth century, marked by the wars of religion, which helped to forge her reputation as an ambitious thirsty for power, ready for all deceptions and influences.

Maria Grazia Chiuri is inspired by a 16th century queen of France to dress the summer of 2023

As an Italian arrived at the helm of one of the most famous and powerful French luxury houses in the world, Maria Grazia Chiuri could therefore be compared to Caterina de ‘Medici, born Caterina Maria Romola di Lorenzo de’ Medici. While her collections have been sold like hot cakes for six years, critics remain hard on her. In addition to this parallelism of the Italian in the heart of the French power that suffers from a bad reputation, the Dior district attorney was also inspired by this queen of France as a fashion icon, of course. It is she who would have introduced corsets, wedges and Italian lace to the French court, raise the bar rowing United States.

Crinoline over the sports bra

From the very first glance, the historical inspiration makes itself felt through a circle cage covered with meters of black raffia lace (a feat of craftsmanship). And to modernize this crinoline, the model wore a slightly sporty bra. A look in the form of a dialogue between formal and informal, but above all between past and present to dress the future that we have found on other looks. And if most of the collection was in black (a tribute to the long mourning that Caterina de ‘Medici wore), some garments in white, blue jeans, beige, khaki or floral print also lit it up.

Parallel to these Dior creations, Dutch choreographers Imre and Marne van Opstal and their troupe gave a contemporary dance show, in front of a cavernous decor imagined by contemporary French artist Eva Jospin (and yes, she is the daughter of the former Prime Minister Lionel Jospin, if you are ever wondering). What to add a layer on the importance of adding art in her collections to the commercial success of Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior.

Front page photo credit: YouTube screenshot.