At New York Fashion Week, diversity parades more than ever

Started on September 9, 2022, New York Fashion Week (NYFW) just ended on September 14. Now it’s up to London, Milan, then Paris to present their collections for spring-summer 2023. It’s also time to get dressed a report on the issues of diversity and inclusion from the American fashion capital, which has put in place an entire program to combat racism in the industry.

On the official NYFW calendar, 25% of black designers walked the runway

While there were already outlets compiling ethnic statistics on models showing at New York Fashion Week, the Council of American Fashion Designers (CFDA) announced a plan of action on June 4, 2020 (in the wake of George Floyd’s death. which had rekindled the flame of the Black Lives Matter movement existing since 2013): recruitment program to promote black talent, mentoring, diversity and inclusion training as well as donations to anti-racist associations. Now that the bulk of the pandemic is behind us, NYFW’s Spring-Summer 2023 should therefore allow us to measure the rewards of this work.

As noted today Fashion businessnear 30 black designers walked the runway during this New York fashion week, which is 25% of the official calendar drafted by the CFDA.

Behind a spectacular figure of diversity, the reality of the lack of inclusion

But behind this impressive figure, the specialized media took the time to question the designers in question to try to measure whether they really felt included, beyond this diversity of facade:

“On the one hand, the dramatic increase in the number of black designers at Fashion Week has sparked pride and celebration. On the other hand, the small production budgets, the lack of media coverage, and the overwhelming feeling that their biggest supporters continue to be their black, racialized peers in fashion and print leave much to be desired. “

Several designers thus testify to the impression of having been invited to inflate a figure, without being fully supported by itthrough printing, access to financial resources, training, networking and other professional opportunities still permitted to other designers.

Among them, Sergio Hudson discovered in particular that it was mainly people of color (celebrities and journalists) who took the time to attend his fashion show. Which led him to declare to the Fashion Business in particular:

“I’ll be happy when we get to a time where it’s not like I’m one of the most exciting color designers, but I’m just one of the most exciting designers. “

Something to revive the issue of tokenism: defend against accusations of discrimination by inviting some racialized designers or models as a guarantee of diversity… Without making any effort for real inclusion.

Front page photo credit: Instagram screenshot.