To succeed Jeremy Scott, Moschino chose David Renne (who remained Gucci designer for almost 20 years) out of 1um November 2023. But the Italian company announces his death a few days later, following a “sudden illness”. Two months later, she seems to have found the right profile to recover from this tragedy: Adrian Appiolaza (yes, another man, we shouldn’t joke either).
Who is Adrian Appiolaza, new artistic director of Moschino?
Originally from Buenos Aires, this 51-year-old designer trained at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, before working for Alexander McQueen, Phoebe Philo and Marc Jacobs. But for the past decade, Adrian Appiolaza has worked at JW Anderson and Loewe, under the supervision of Jonathan Anderson, as design director of women’s ready-to-wear. From there, he worked mostly on Beyoncé’s glittery black mani jumpsuits for her tour Renaissanceas well as the anthurium dresses worn by Taylor Russell and Zendaya.
Where and when will Adrian Appiolaza’s first fashion show for Moschino take place?
In addition to his impressive resume, Adrian Appiolaza has established himself as a wearable meme expert hyper-connected to pop culture. Just what is needed to carry on the intellectual legacy of Franco Moschino, perpetuated by Jeremy Scott from 2013 to 2023. The Argentine designer will present his first collection on February 22, 2024 for autumn winter 2024-2025, as part of Milan Fashion Week. The place is already booked: the Permanente Museummuseum which hosted the first retrospective on the brand in 1993, covering its first ten years under the guidance of its founder, “ Moschino – X years of Kaos! 1983-1993 “. Which portends a return to the origins for the new Moschino by Adrian Appiolaza.
Especially since the latter also establishes himself as a great collector of fashion archives (which can also be rented via his dedicated Instagram account, @20age_archive). This is what he is keen to underline in the statement making his appointment official:
«The jackets with 3D postcards, the dress with a skirt made up of about twenty bras, the countless trompe l’oeil: as a stylist and collector, the list of Franco Moschino’s creations that have entered the history of fashion is almost infinite.
The essence of his talent, for me, is inhabiting his time, a mission he accomplished with enviable lightness, opening a window that allows each of us to imagine, in our own way, the future.
I am deeply grateful to Massimo Ferretti [NDLR : Président Exécutif d’Aeffe S.p.A., le groupe qui possède Moschino, ainsi que Cacharel, Alberta Ferreti, ou encore Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini] for allowing me to enter the Moschino world, as well as entering a house whose walls tell a story that I can’t wait to hear.
I am ready to take the Maison into a new chapter, with a theatrical touch, in true Moschino style. »
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Mary Crossley is an author at “The Fashion Vibes”. She is a seasoned journalist who is dedicated to delivering the latest news to her readers. With a keen sense of what’s important, Mary covers a wide range of topics, from politics to lifestyle and everything in between.