Fendi calls Stefano Pilati for a collection: a new era of collaborations is confirmed

Fendi calls Stefano Pilati for a collection: a new era of collaborations is confirmed

After Donatella Versace and then Marc Jacobs, Fendi invites Stefano Pilati (former CEO of Saint Laurent and Zegna) to deal with the Fendi codes for an event collection, confirming a new, more collaborative era at the top of luxury.

For a long time in the world of luxury, houses competed with each other, even within the same group, and there was a tendency to collaborate with brands with a completely different positioning, such as the giant Louis Vuitton with the cult streetwear label Supreme. But in recent seasons a new era has emerged: that of collaborations between houses of the same genre. The first notable pair was that of Balenciaga and Gucci (two houses of the Kering group) in April 2021, where the artistic directors of the respective houses, Demna Gvasalia and Alessandro Michele, deliberately hacked each other. Since then, another collaboration has left its mark: Versace x Fendi in September 2021. And this has visibly inspired the artistic direction of the latter, led by Kim Jones for the women’s collections and Silvia Fendi for the men’s, as they want to bring it to life regularly Friends of Fendi.

The era of collaborations between big names in luxury is confirmed

While the house of Jean Paul Gaultier already invites a different designer for each haute couture season (Chitose Abe of Sacai, Glenn Martens of Y/Project and Diesel, Olivier Rousteing of Balmain, Haider Ackermann and soon Simone Rocha), the house of Fendi therefore proposes a similar model through Friends of Fendi. It’s about inviting a different designer to imagine a capsule collection based on the house’s codes. After Donatella Versace, then Marc Jacobs (who went relatively unnoticed), it is now Stefano Pilati’s turn to join Fendi.

Who is Stefano Pilati, the new designer invited to reinvent Fendi for a collection

The Milanese designer has been working in the world of fashion for more than 30 years, working for Armani, Yves Saint Laurent (of which he was artistic director from 2004 to 2012), and Zegna (from 2012 to 2016). In 2017 he founded his own label, Random Identities, which is decidedly queer. Kim Jones and Stefano Pilati met in January 2014, in Kate Moss’s English country house who was celebrating her 40th birthday at that time. Years later, the Brit asked the Italian who now lives in Berlin to join his collaborative creation workshop.

Full suit, high-waisted trousers with pleats and peplums, poetic blouses, double F monogram treated in black and white, baguette bag made more minimalist than ever… The result of Fendi x Stefano Pilati will be available online and in selected physical Fendi stores from 26 October 2023.

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