Travel writer Angela Epstein and her husband Martin completed a 160-mile road trip across mainland Greece from Kalamata to Athens, avoiding overcrowded island tourist hubs.
Inspired by director Christopher Nolan's three-hour blockbuster film, The Odyssey, the week-long journey took them past uncrowded beaches, ancient ruins, and silvery olive groves across the Peloponnese peninsula.
Around 70 to 80 percent of British holidaymakers heading to Greece visit the country's islands, leaving the mainland quiet even during peak summer season. The couple began their journey at Kalamata airport in southern Greece, which Epstein described as having a drowsy, low-key feel with a solitary border control official and a tiny Avis desk.
Nolan's epic movie starring Matt Damon and Zendaya has sparked global interest in Greek filming locations among set-jetters. Epstein and her husband planned a three-stop itinerary over seven days after hiring a Volkswagen car, starting with a base 30 miles west of Kalamata airport in the Messinia region.
The Peloponnese is a large peninsula in southern Greece connected to the central mainland by the Isthmus of Corinth. Rich in classical history, the region contains major archaeological sites dating back to ancient Greece and the Mycenaean civilization.
Luxury Base in Messinia
The couple established their first base at The Romanos, a luxury Marriott chain hotel located within the 1,000-hectare Costa Navarino resort. Spread over countryside facing the Ionian Sea, the resort never felt crowded despite housing numerous restaurants, pools, and Greece's largest spa with 22 treatment rooms.
Using their hire car to explore the local coastline, they first visited Voidokilia Beach, an omega-shaped curve of sand overlooked by limestone cliffs containing Nestor's Cave. Nolan reportedly filmed parts of his movie at the quiet, off-the-beaten-track spot.
Next, the pair drove a dozen miles south to the harbour town of Pylos. After spending time in the town square, they climbed up to Niokastro, a 16th-century fortress overlooking the bay, where they found ample parking and almost no visitors.
Highland Drives and Ancient Ruins
After three days in Messinia, the couple drove north-east towards the harbour town of Nafplio as grey clouds closed in over the Peloponnesian highlands. Along the way, they stopped at Messene to explore its vast amphitheatre, which Epstein noted as one of Greece's most impressive yet least crowded archaeological sites.
Messene was founded in the fourth century BC as a fortified city-state and remains one of the best-preserved ancient cities in Greece. The nearby site of Tiryns dates back to the Bronze Age and served as a major Mycenaean citadel famous for its massive stone architecture.
They also visited Tiryns, the ancient site where the legendary hero Heracles is said to have performed his Twelve Labours. Epstein emphasized that the main freedom of a Greek mainland road trip came from pulling into quiet mountain villages with stone houses and panoramic views without strictly targeting tourist sights.
In Nafplio, they checked in to the Hotel Grande Bretagne, a neo-classical landmark situated in Filellinon Square. The walkable town features narrow alleyways and boutique-lined streets showcasing layers of Venetian and Ottoman architectural history. They also drove up to the 300-year-old Palamidi Fortress, which looms more than 700 feet above the town.
Nafplio served as the first official capital of modern Greece in 1827 following the Greek War of Independence, retaining its strategic role until the capital moved to Athens in 1834. The city's prominent Palamidi Fortress was constructed by the Venetians in the early 18th century.
Reaching Athens via the Corinth Canal
Resuming their drive towards Athens, the couple made their final stops in Corinth. They wandered among the ancient ruins before visiting a viewpoint overlooking the four-mile-long Corinth Canal, a waterway engineered through the landscape to link the Ionian and Aegean seas.
Constructed in the late 19th century, the Corinth Canal cuts through the narrow Isthmus of Corinth, physically separating the Peloponnese peninsula from the mainland while connecting the Gulf of Corinth with the Saronic Gulf.
As they approached Athens, traffic grew heavier, but the couple completed their road trip at the recently opened Conrad Athens The Ilisian hotel for a two-night stay. Located a 15-minute walk from Syntagma Square, home of the Hellenic Parliament, the hotel provided oversized rooms, a large swimming pool, and an airy atmosphere.
Return flights with Jet2.com from London Stansted to Kalamata start from £84, while return flights from Athens to Stansted start from £148. Double rooms at The Romanos start from £333 per night via costanavarino.com, double rooms at Hotel Grande Bretagne start from £120 per night via sunvil.co.uk, and doubles at Conrad Athens The Ilisian start from £600 per night via hilton.com. Car rental for the route starts from £219 through British Airways.
