What if you use anti-aging cosmetics on young skin?

“And if?” We continue our section. We have learned in our previous issues what will happen if you wash natural hair with shampoo for dyed hair, and what will happen if you just wash your body with running water. Today we are approaching the controversial topic of anti-aging cosmetics, debunking the myth that the skin under the influence of powerful agents begins to become sluggish and ceases to work on its own. A word to a beautician.

Elena Umnova, founder of the Update clinic, cosmetologist, trichologist, Mertz consultant for injection procedures

The concept of passport age and biological age do not always overlap. The key role is played by lifestyle, proper care and protection of the skin, ecological region of residence, and about 15% – genetic data. In other words, when prescribing cosmetics, the doctor focuses not on the date of birth, but on the quality of the skin, that is, on the indications.

Now let’s look at what falls into the aging category. Doctors distinguish “photoaging” at a young age of 20-30 years, that is, fading of the skin due to the negative effects of ultraviolet radiation, with the following symptoms:

• pigmentation and uneven skin tone
• redness and enlarged capillaries
• dehydration
• mimic wrinkles
• loss of tone (elasticity of the skin)
• drooping of the eyelids, eyebrows, and outer corners of the lips

What happens if you constantly use anti-aging drugs at a young age?

There is a myth that the skin under the influence of powerful means becomes lazy and stops working on its own. But after the cessation of the use of cosmetics, neither addiction nor withdrawal syndrome occurs – this has been scientifically proven. Globally, nothing will happen if you use anti-aging cosmetics on young skin, often age marks are marketing because the moisturizing cream is also anti-aging.

But if cosmetics contain growth factors and signal peptides for active division, then such a product for young skin is not needed and can cause harm, like too oily products. Avoid the following ingredients: matrixyl 3000 (“matrixyl 3000”), palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide, EGF, caviar, gold.

How do you choose your own care?

Remember that cleansing is the foundation of beautiful skin. You should have two separate makeup removers and cleansers, their formulas are designed to remove two different types of dirt. Choose a cleanser based on your skin type. AHA acids in the composition allow you to gently improve metabolism (exfoliation), dissolve “black spots”, even out skin tone and improve the usability of subsequent cosmetics. For example, glycol improves skin moisture. If the skin is very sensitive, prone to redness, use products with enzymes. Do not believe the myth that acids in the composition are only for aging skin. Rather, it is an excellent prevention of the aging process.

Beware of 3-in-1 clay-based mass-market products – they can cause dehydration with daily use, even for oily skin.

Be sure to use a toner to restore the skin’s pH.

In general, the following recommendations can be made:

Antioxidants are always needed at any age. Serums and light creams containing vitamin C (preferably in dark glass and L-ascorbic form), resveratrol, vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin A (retinol), as well as AHA acids such as glycol. Alpha lipoic acid, beta glucan, coenzyme Q10, algae extracts are also on our list. The collagen in the composition will have a blocking effect (a kind of mask that does not interfere with cellular respiration) – that is, it will have a decongestant effect.