Oh, to have been in Djemaa el Fna Square when Morocco reached the semi-finals of the World Cup. At the best of times the place is crazy. But when the national soccer team scored goals and won hearts around the world, it must have been absolutely amazing.
At one point the BBC went live on court and captured some of the hysteria. And perhaps that is why interest in Morocco has soared. According to the Tourism Authority, there were more than 13 million mentions of the country on social media in the past month, when there would normally have been only around 500,000 for that period.
I was there for football for a few weeks. It was my first time in Marrakech and I realized how true this old saying is about Morocco being a short-haul flight to a long-haul destination.
Djemaa el-Fna square in Marrakech. Kate Johnson writes: “At the best of times the place is crazy. But when the national football team scored goals and won hearts around the world, it must have been absolutely amazing.”
The medina was already full, so who knows where all the new tourists will find their place, but they will certainly feel welcome. Even the most stubborn shopkeeper exudes good-natured charm and there is no embarrassment in not buying.
This is a good thing because the souks will confuse a compass. The owner of the romantic rooftop restaurant L’mida told me: ‘I was born here and I still get lost.’ Google Maps didn’t even try to help me find my way through the endless twists and turns of crowded cobblestone streets to Djemaa el-Fna. I arrived and it was buzzing; Drum beats pounded through the soles of my feet as I joined hundreds of people admiring snake charmers, traders spreading their wares on blankets, and dance groups – all steeped in the smell of incense.
I stayed in the Bab Doukkala area, at the recently renovated Riad Elegancia, with its sheltered roof terrace for breakfast and sunbathing and small stylish rooms with carved wood and hand-laid tiles.
As the sister hotel to La Maison Arabe, a hotel as steeped in Marrakech history as Churchill’s favorite hotel La Mamounia, it was the perfect place to feel connected to the rhythm of the city – and to indulge in a hammam enjoy at the spa. Top tip on the hammam front: throw away any British restrictions before you undress and close your eyes to a routine of black soap, full body scrubbing (I mean full body scrubbing) with a rough mitt, lots of rinsing, the heat of a steam bath and a massage, after which you will understand why it is a weekly ritual here.
Kate’s Hotel in the Bab Doukkala district of Marrakech – the newly renovated Riad Elegancia
Moroccan fans celebrate their team’s success in Qatar – they finished fourth overall
The daylight square gave none of the hectic evening before as my guide (a must-have luxury for this city organized by the hotel), the uber-elegant Youssef, ushered us through the souks on babouches (soles made by artisans with the hand sewn) took. Spices of a shop no wider than a front door, spectacular caftans in silk, wool or velvet, and finally a carpet shop where the small door led to rooms with carpets stacked to the ceiling (current stock: 28,000) .
A stay in the medina is truly breathtaking, after which you may need to take a break from your holiday.
I went to the ‘New Town’ built in 1914, walled, with palm trees and boulevards and specially created for the incredibly glamorous Dar Rhizlane, a spacious and welcoming 21 room en suite villa with beautiful tiles and stucco, heated pool , gardens with old trees and an impeccable restaurant. Its alluring authenticity proved like a cow that the hallmark of a well-designed space is being able to sit in it for an hour and find it interesting.
Just a short walk away was the new M-lane, where global brands from Four Seasons to Aston Martin jockeyed for space. Locals said they loved it, although it felt rather boring to me, but still great to drink coffee and people watch before cruising through the 300 species of plants, arched walkways and Berber museum of the Jardin Majorelle.
Kate stayed at the “incredibly glamorous” Dar Rhizlane – “a spacious and inviting villa with 21 rooms and suites”.
Finally, half an hour southwest, I spent a relaxing afternoon in the lunar landscape of the Agafay desert, with through traffic meant to be a tourist attraction, at Yes We Camp.
There are 40 permanent tents (all with velvet curtains and Berber carpets), a swimming pool and a fire pit – and all I heard was birdsong.
Three holidays in one. It’s all part of the magic of Marrakech.
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James is an author and travel journalist who writes for The Fashion Vibes. With a love for exploring new cultures and discovering unique destinations, James brings his readers on a journey with him through his articles.
