Dordogne Shire? These bastide villages have become a real magnet for British second homes and tourists…but they’re still a French stronghold

That Monpazier’s premier hotel – the Edward 1er – is named after our own Edward I, is a reminder of the deep and enduring links between Britain and this fascinating region of south-west France.

When Edward ascended the English throne in 1272, he also inherited the vast Duchy of Acquitaine – where Monpazier is located – through his great-grandmother, Queen Eleonore. But he will have to fight to keep it. Philip IV of France decided that his English cousins ​​had trampled on his territory long enough and, in preparation for the wars to come, established a series of fortified settlements – called bastides – along the border of the disputed territory.

Not to be outdone, Edward began building his own network of bastides. Monpazier was founded in 1284 and is perhaps the most beautiful and still the best preserved.

The British were finally driven out of Aquitaine in 1453, but they recently returned, now in peace and brotherhood.

The bastide villages of the Dordogne have proven to be a major attraction not only for tourists, but also for second homes and those looking to settle permanently in France. Mustachioed French purists often object to what they see as the excessive Anglicisation of the region – Dordogne-shire, as they like to call it – but I experienced an open and happy spirit of symbiosis.

“The charm of [Monpazier, above] And [the] “The setting is a big draw,” friend and expat Ian tells Neil, adding: “It’s very picturesque in a gentle landscape.”

Our hosts and long-time friends Julie and Ian, both retired teachers, bought a small holiday home here in 2007 before moving to an elegant stone villa on about an acre of land on the edge of town, where they took up full-time residence. in 2019. .

“The charm of the village and surroundings is a big draw,” says Ian. “It’s very picturesque in the rolling countryside, with warmer and drier weather than the North East of England, where we come from.” “The locals are friendly, patient and helpful – especially if you try the language.”

You don’t have to live here to appreciate its features. It is a remarkable place: a piece of living history yet a contemporary atmosphere. In addition, it is only a 40-minute drive from Bergerac Airport and two hours from Bordeaux.

Monpazier’s main hotel, the Edward 1er (pictured), is named after Edward I of England, who founded the town in 1284.

Ian says Monpazier (pictured), founded in 1284, is “perhaps the most beautiful” of the bastide villages and remains “the most intact”.

Access to the old city is via imposing towered gates, behind which wide, low arches give access to a perfectly preserved market square. There are cheerful cafes, pastries, artisan bakeries and a weekly market selling clothes, wine, fish, cheese and local produce.

We dine at Chez Minou, a family restaurant specializing in regional dishes. My salad of duck gizzards, steamed, sliced ​​and warmed in the oven, is so good that I order another for lunch the next day in the larger town of Villereal. I also buy a can of duck gizzard jam at the market to cook at home – but later realize that, like retsina and Moroccan kaftans, it’s not really travel-friendly.

Our holiday consists of a leisurely stroll through the countryside, visiting shops and markets, and overeating and drinking. We visit the mighty bastide of Monflanquin, which sits like a great eagle’s nest on a steep hill. Anyone who thought of attacking it in the past must have had a death wish.

“Our holiday consists of a leisurely stroll through the countryside, browsing shops and markets and eating and drinking too much,” says Neil. Above: Bread at a market in the Dordogne

Neil visits the Bastide of Monflanquin (photo), which “sits like a great eagle’s nest on a steep hill”.

For the active, there is canoeing at Domme, a recreational lake with a beach and facilities for children, and wild swimming at Limeuil.

As I have no children under 38 and I hate freezing cold water, I opt for 18 holes at the beautiful Lolivarie golf course near Belves. I work with Greg, a former City trader, and Hilton, a retired accountant I met a few days before. They both came here looking for a quieter life and it seems to be working.

They are so relaxed that they make me win. Back in Monpazier, we drink hoppy craft beer and eat burgers at Biere de la Bastide, owned by Hugh Davies, a cheerful Englishman with Celtic genes and a penchant for rugby. He opened here five years ago and has built a thriving business. Originally attractive mainly to visitors and expats, most of the employees and customers are now French.

Plus canoeing on Domme, a recreational lake with a beach and facilities for children

“It made sense to retire in France,” he says. “It’s a beautiful place and the locals are extremely friendly.”

The population of most bastides declined as young people moved away. The capital infusion from tourism and expatriate immigration therefore provides an important stimulus to the weaker local economy.

During a bicycle tour of the Bastides in 1908, TE Lawrence (of Arabia) described Monpazier as “a small town that will soon fall into ruins”. How wrong he was.