Early morning Fethiye’s sun-drenched harbor and marina sees hundreds of yachts, gulets and sailboats moored, all ready for another day of exploring Turkey’s dazzlingly beautiful Lycian coast.
The bright white hull of the Fethiye-Rhodes ferry towers above, glistening in the sunlight, ready to follow its two-hour route along the coast, past the coastal towns of Gocek and Marmaris, along the long spine of the Datca peninsula and over. Cross the open water to reach the island of Rhodes.
It’s one of the easiest ways to combine a holiday in these two neighbors – a quick two-hour drive from Turkey’s decidedly non-European coast to Greece’s more famously slow pace.
At 7am the port is quiet except for the line of backpackers, day trippers and couples all waiting to board. There is a sense of hushed excitement—a palpable sense of adventure in traveling between countries without getting on a plane.
Our trip – exploring the Turkish coast and Rhodes for two weeks – started with a few days in Kalkan. Located in a mountainous, horseshoe-shaped bay and known for its quaint cobbled streets, this former fishing village has developed into a major seaside resort in recent decades.
Annabelle Thorpe explores Patara – one of Turkey’s most spectacular beaches (pictured) – before catching the ferry to Rhodes
And there is much to discover nearby. The fast road to Patara – one of Turkey’s most spectacular beaches – passes right through the ancient site of Roman Patara. Once a thriving maritime city and capital of ancient Lycia, its fields are dotted with ruined temples, a triumphal arch and a necropolis area, and more ruins are being excavated and restored.
A new visitor center opened a few years ago, making the site more accessible and easier to navigate, but most cars still drive straight to the long boardwalk that leads to Patara’s miles of pristine sand.
And thanks in part to the carp turtles that lay their eggs in the sand, all construction has been banned, except for the thatched beach cafe and small area with sun loungers. Fortunately, nature dominates here, with the Lycian mountains looming behind the Xanthos plains – great khakis and mauves.
While most visitors to Turkey focus on the beaches, the interior offers an opportunity to experience a more authentic side of life. It’s barely a ten-minute drive from Kalkan to the mountain village of Islamlar, but it’s a completely different world, the air full of birdsong and the sound of mountain streams.
This is the place for a slow lunch of mezze and freshly caught fish, sitting in a kosk (traditional low Turkish seat) overlooking the sea.
The next morning we drive in the opposite direction to the village of Bezirgan – another quiet inland town – for a traditional Turkish breakfast at Sahika Bahce, with tables set in a pretty flower garden.
After a few days of exploring, our thoughts turned to Greece. With an early ferry departure we decide to stay a few nights near the marina. We head to Hillside Beach Club, a sprawling all-inclusive resort tucked away on a beautiful wooded bay just outside of town. This is an opportunity to recharge batteries before the inevitable gear change between Turkey and Greece.
There are only about 40 kilometers between the two countries, but despite – or perhaps because of – their proximity, the story between the two is not a happy one.
Annabelle’s journey begins with a few days in Kalkan, Türkiye (above)
In 1923, after a three-year war, a population exchange saw 1.6 million Muslims and Christians move – some forcibly – between the two in the hope of creating two ethnically harmonious nations free of sectarian divisions.
The radical politics left the Turkish coast littered with empty hamlets and semi-deserted villages – such as Kalkan. The exodus was mirrored in the Greek islands closest to the Turkish coast, including Rhodes, which explains the island’s ancient mosques and sense of Ottoman history intertwined with that of Greece.
After our beautiful trip from Fethiye – with the Taurus Mountains in the distance – we feel like we’ve retreated to our Hotel Elissa and taken it easy, from the architecture to the atmosphere.
What the places have in common is a rich history. Rhodes Town, just ten minutes from our hotel, has one of the most complete medieval centers in Europe, with a network of 14th-century streets. Under Turkish rule, which lasted nearly four centuries, the city is still dotted with mosques and Ottoman buildings.
After a day of exploring, we head inland to discover some of the villages nestled among the rolling khaki hills. The first stop is Apollona, home of Paraga, said to be the best tavern on the island.
Top spot: Annabelle admires the breathtaking view from the Lindos Blu Hotel in Rhodes, Greece
Run by the bright-eyed, bearded Giannis, it specializes in traditional Rhodian food – overnight stews baked in clay, plates of marinated lamb and various breads.
We eat silky eggplants and beef so tender it melts like chocolate, and we honestly tell Giannis it’s the best meal of the trip.
From Apollona it is an easy drive to Embonas, the most isolated of the island’s villages and said to be the most traditional. It’s more touristy than expected, but the main leafy street has a nice mix of tavernas, cafes and souvenir shops.
The last few days we moved further south. We stay close to Lindos with its Acropolis and a maze of picturesque streets. We head into town, but the crowds from the cruise ships are overwhelming, so we escape to the sleepy resort of Pefkos for a swim in the calm waters of Lee Beach.
Later, as we sit on the terrace of the Lindos Blu Hotel, I feel like I can almost see Turkey, so close to the water. Although Greece and Turkey are considered so different, our trip showed that these two neighbors have as much in common as they divide them.
Together, these fascinating countries offer an extraordinary glimpse into their intertwined histories – and the perfect way to have two holidays in one.
HISTORIC TOWN STILL FULL OF CHARM AND DELICIOUS CAFES
Kalkan, on Turkey’s southern Mediterranean coast, began as a trading post established by Greeks about 200 years ago.
It drops steeply into a bay that was once home to ships that transported her to North Africa and Europe. Now it is the center for bars and restaurants, fishing boats and beautiful wooden gulets offering day cruises.
Although Kalkan has become a major tourist destination, it cannot be denied but it has retained its authenticity and charm. For me, early mornings were the best, when the cobbled streets are washed clean for the hustle and bustle to come. While others sleep, enjoy a breakfast of locally sourced honey, cheese, cured meats and olives at one of dozens of quaint cafes.
The Kalkan Regency Hotel sits high above the coastal town of Kalkan
In August, the day gets hot quickly, so find a spot by the sea. Surrounding the vast bay are many beach clubs – small oases built into the coastline, where for a small fee you can spend the day diving in the blue water, lazily stopping for lunch and being served.
The bay is perfect for those who need to entertain children. There is no shortage of activities, especially if they find it exciting to be towed at high speed on inflatable boats and jump over the waves. But don’t worry if that’s not your bag, as the hum of motorboats and jet skis is not intrusive and I found it amusing to watch from a distance and the comfort of my sun lounger.
We spent our first week at the Kalkan Regency high above the city, which takes the harsh side out of the humidity and heat. The hotel is justifiably proud of its hammam – an ancient Turkish bath where you can wash away your worries with a powerful massage, just as travelers to this beautiful land have done throughout the ages.
In the early evening, Kalkan prepares for food and entertainment. August stays hot at night, so rooftop restaurants are the best places to enjoy local delicacies. There are also plenty of lively bars and noisy nightclubs, but this isn’t Ayia Napa – the infamous Cypriot party town – and parents tell us they’re happy to let their teenagers explore the nightlife without them.
We then moved on to the quiet luxury of the three-bedroom Villa Sade in the rugged hills behind Kalkan, near the village of Islamlar. The 22 meter long infinity pool invites you to take a dip.
There are fewer tourists here and we frequented the Village Restaurant & Cafe where we enjoyed fresh delicacies at a fraction of the cost of feeding a family in Kalkan. Explore the region’s lush hinterland, especially Saklikent National Park, and visit the gorge, where you can float through the rapids—get there early to avoid crowds.
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James is an author and travel journalist who writes for The Fashion Vibes. With a love for exploring new cultures and discovering unique destinations, James brings his readers on a journey with him through his articles.
