A little piece of Britain – far from home: discover that nowhere else in the world quite looks like the wild and remote Falklands

Over the tumbling dunes of Yorke Bay, an RAF Typhoon hurtled into the South Atlantic. My companion waved to the plane and the pilot, who we saw, responded by gently flapping the jet’s wings.

Welcome to the new Falkland Islands, where the military is still on the ground four decades after the failed Argentine invasion of 1982, but where years of stability have created a peaceful haven just waiting to be explored.

And Yorke Bay, a crescent of sand just outside the capital Stanley, is a symbolic site for the regeneration of this British overseas territory. Because although the beach was closed for a long time due to Argentine mines, it was finally cleaned up so that locals and tourists can enjoy the beautiful landscape.

“I never thought I would be standing here,” says Daniel Biggs, owner of Falklands Outdoors, one of the many new tour companies. “I used to look through the fence and think it would never be safe.”

But now it is – and the “Suspicious area, do not enter” signs are gone. Still, the question remains: why travel 8,000 miles to visit this remote archipelago (population 3,200) in the South Atlantic?

The answer is simple: to see some of the world’s most spectacular marine life and experience the wild pride and ingenuity of a community so far away. A little piece of Britain… far from home.

After a visit to the bay we went to Volunteer Point where large colonies of king penguins and (smaller) Gentoo and Magellanic penguins can be found. More than 3,000 waddle around here.

A bird’s-eye view of the Falkland Islands’ capital, Stanley, a place with a thriving fishing industry

Tom spent time at Volunteer Point (above) where over 3,000 penguins “waddle”

It was an extraordinary sensation. We hung out close to the tame birds, which chirped, chirped, frolicked and generally made noise. When we visited in mid-November – spring in the Falkland Islands – the chicks had molted, revealing beautiful black and white feathers.

Sometimes a curious penguin would come running up unexpectedly, flap its wings and inspect us. They were heartbreaking, joyous moments.

You will fly via a stopover on the mid-Atlantic island of Cape Verde to Mount Pleasant Airport in the Falkland Islands, a post-1982 military and commercial airstrip. Total flight time is 18 hours and direct service is available on RAF Brize Norton ‘Airbridge’ flights. You can also travel via Chile.

Passengers usually go directly to Stanley on arrival. It’s a colorful place with brightly colored buildings with tin roofs and a range of lively restaurants and bars, as well as souvenir shops, red post offices and telephone boxes.

In a prominent position, near Government House, is a statue of Margaret Thatcher, who as Prime Minister ordered the task force to liberate the islands.

Colorful welcome: Stanley (above) is a “colourful place with brightly colored buildings with tin roofs and a cluster of lively restaurants and bars”.

Above is the Archipelago statue of Margaret Thatcher who as Prime Minister ordered the task force to liberate the islands

There is also Thatcher Drive, along which many a Land Rover swings. The Falkland Islands must have more of these vehicles per capita than anywhere else.

A beautiful early 20th century cathedral rises alongside a charming whalebone monument celebrating Britain’s heritage. Meanwhile, a museum explains British historical links dating back to the 16th century, as well as details of Argentina’s deadly 74-day conflict that killed 255 British soldiers, three islanders and 649 Argentines.

However, there is now a cheerful mood in Stanley as prosperity comes from the booming fishing industry. This is evident in the busy bars, especially the Victory Bar (with their Union Jack flags) and the Globe Tavern, and in restaurants such as The Waterfront Hotel and Malvina House Hotel.

The latter is near a memorial to the Falklands War, where the Princess Royal was laying a wreath during our visit. Many veterans made their way. “I think a lot about the war,” said David Woodward, 60, who is with the Royal Engineers, No. 59 Commando Squadron, served. “I still remember it. We have come to pay our respects.’

From Stanley you can fly to Sea Lion Island (pictured), home to giant elephant seals and penguins

A Magellanic penguin on Sea Lion Island

Battlefield tours of Goose Green, San Carlos and Mount Tumbledown are popular. But it is the wildlife on the offshore islands that attracts many visitors.

From Stanley you can fly to Sea Lion Island, home to giant elephant seals, Bleaker, Pebble, Carcass and Saunders Islands. Expect beautiful rockhopper penguins, rare Caracara falcons, petrels and fried albatrosses.

Small propeller planes connect the islands and land on grassy airstrips, effectively creating a “sea safari” with tourists boarding for up to three or four on typical two-week visits. Flights last 15 to 40 minutes.

Rockhoppers were abundant at Port Howard Farm in West Falkland. We also tried trout fishing on the Warrah River.

As well as penguins, highlights included oystercatchers, upland geese and sinister but calm skuas circling over penguin nests in search of eggs. We’ve never seen an orca, although sometimes you get lucky.

Small prop planes connect islands like Carcass Island (above) and Bleaker Island and land on grassland strips

You can expect to see beautiful rockhopper penguins when you arrive at Saunders Island, reveals Tom

Visitors stay in small lodges and farms. Don’t expect anything special. But that’s part of the charm – along with an unfailingly hospitable welcome.

Back in Yorke Bay, before flying home, we relaxed on the once deadly sand and watched an albatross soar overhead. The war 40 years ago felt like a distant memory.

Of course, that’s not the case for many locals – especially when Argentine veterans return, some in t-shirts with Argentine flags.

No wonder comments are sometimes made about ‘Argyes’ as the souvenir shops carry slogans such as ‘The Falklands: British through and through!’ With Argentina still claiming the islands, this is understandable.

Yes, the war may be long over, but it is far from forgotten. Not that it matters in Yorke Bay among the penguins.