Freshness and avant-garde, we comment on Jacquemus’ latest catwalk

Jacquemus, the French designer who has filled the Parisian scene with freshness and color, has presented his new collection: ‘Le Raphia’, which takes us into the universe of manners and avant-garde of his garments. On the catwalk, natural fabrics and a color palette stood out where raw, white and mother-of-pearl tones alternate with other more vibrant ones such as yellow, pink or red.

With a statement on his Instagram saying: “Dear all, tomorrow’s show is my last…of the year”, added even more anticipation to the event, which was held in Paris and, as the designer is used to, outside the official parade calendar. “Le Raphia” comes after his international success with “Le Splash”, the collection he presented on a beach in Hawaii and after “Le Papier”, his most romantic collection, which he showed the world in the middle of some French salt flats. The space where his shows take place is very important to the designer, who carefully studies each visual element to create an enveloping narrative that is coherent with the brand’s aesthetic. On this occasion, it was in Paris, in a room decorated with minimalist curtains and in which “it was raining raffia”, the main material of the garments and from which the collection takes its name.

The designs he presented have a clear Mediterranean inspiration and have a very close relationship with garments from other previous collections. in this way accessories such as small bags or large hats, reappearing on the catwalk showing that Jacquemus is not a designer of gray, he prefers extremes, whether white or black; XL or “small” (one of his most iconic bags). On this occasion, the accessories accompanied low skirts and trousers, crop tops and dresses, garments that stood out for their pronounced shoulders, structured shapes, recesses and transparencies. The fabric is included as a novelty denimbecause the designer knows the trends very well and knows that it will be one of the most important in the world.

Among the lucky ones who attended the parade of the new spring/summer 2023 collection familiar faces such as C. Tangana, Iris Law, Pamela Anderson or Aaron Piper. Here we show you a selection looks like from the catwalk.