For her show, Coperni created a spray dress directly over Bella Hadid

Few young independent brands manage to impose their own codes and imprint them on the collective retina.. Led by the couple in the city and in the studio composed by Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant since 2013, Coperni still succeeds brilliantly. Their Swipe bag has already become a bag of recent years, for example, and its blown glass version has demonstrated the extent of their creativity. Now, is their Spring-Summer 2023 fashion show that the maison talks about a lot. And this, thanks to an ending in which a dress was sprayed directly on Bella Hadid’s naked body.

The details of the Coperni Spring / Summer 2023 fashion show

Presented on September 30, 2022 in Paris, at the Musée des Arts et Métiers, the new Coperni collection was full of interesting details, sometimes accessible, sometimes daring. Several dresses made with embroidered pieces of glass, as well as a Swipe bag made of 1 kg of molten gold made a splash. An asymmetrical cut-out neckline, particularly high and boxy shoulders, or even belt-shaped sleeves of the trousers were the highlights of the collection. Special mention to the bra cups that are proudly displayed on the chest of a dress and are even duplicated to act as shoulder pads. More commercial turned out to be different silhouettes composed of tight tank top or gilet over low-waisted and oversized cargo pants, in line with the trend that is already seen a lot on the street.

The finale of the Coperni show with Bella Hadid naked, bathed in a liquid that turns into a dress

To close the show, Bella Hadid emerged wearing plain nude panties. Manel Torres, the inventor of the producer (a liquid material that solidifies in contact with the skin to create ready-to-spray garments) and one of her co-workers started sprinkling on top of this white stuff as she wriggled so she could create a tailored suit. A member of the Coperni team then went on to define shoulder pads and hem, as well as cut a slit along one leg, to finalize this mesmerizing technological feat (invented in 2003 anyway) with a minimalist result. The little alchemists of fashion, Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, have finally come to greet the public together with the supermodel of her generation, Bella Hadid.

Immediately going viral on Twitter, Instagram and TikTok, this sequence could recall the end of Alexander McQueen’s famous spring-summer 1999 show. À l’époque, c’est la mannequin Shalom Harlow qui dansait en robe blanche sur un plateau tournant pendant que deux robots lui pulvérisaient de la peinture industrielle noire et verte, avec “La mort du cygne” de Camille Saint-Saëns en banda- his.

So it immediately became a great fashion moment for Coperni, in the eyes of astonished neophytes, but also of connoisseurs who can read a form of homage to the great Alexander McQueen. A way to enroll in filiation in the history of fashion.

Join the (so masculine) history of fashion

However, one could also question the inaccessible dimension of this performance, far from being replicable within the reach of all budgets at any time. And this, even if the declaration of intent for the show claimed to be addressed to all women, even if the cabin was mainly composed of skinny models under 30, apart from two so-called “plus size” tops.

Finally, see Bella Hadid, publicly stripped to be sprayed with white liquid by two fully clothed menin order to meet the male gauze of two other men, he could also question in several respects. This mise-en-sene does not strengthen the sexist dichotomy of a female muse muse serving as an object for active men who project what they want onto her?

It’s not the kind of thinking that fits an Instagram story, tweet, TikTok, and other memoryless streams that promote virality.

Front page photo credit: Instagram screenshot by Coperni.