A modern classic with a vintage twist: how Elvis became the most popular movie of the year

A little over a month ago, Baz Luhrmann’s new movie, which gave us The Great Gatsby, Moulin Rouge, and Romeo + Juliet, was screened out of competition at Cannes – giving Elvis a 12-minute standing ovation and Austin Butler, who plays the lead, became the star of the Palais des Festivals et des Congrès on the French coast that evening. Later, the tape was released in wide distribution and, after the love of critics, also won the audience, and now Elvis is called one of the main contenders for the future Oscar, and he himself has already collected more than $ 155 million. box office in a few weeks. This is the same as the director’s unconditional forgiveness when the career was interrupted by almost a decade (Baz Luhrmann’s last film, The Great Gatsby, released in 2013), and it is also neither an example of a brilliant biopic that failed, nor The Great Gatsby. Gucci House, nor other representatives of the genre of recent years (an exception can only be called “Bohemian Rhapsody”). “Elvis” showed the tale of the king of rock and roll in three guises – a young rebel, a Hollywood star and a fading legend – and he did it beautifully. Baz Luhrmann and a loyal friend, Catherine Martin, who worked with him on the sites Romeo + Juliet, Moulin Rouge, Australia, The Great Gatsby and created 40 dresses, were responsible for the costumes for the film.

This time he had a serious mission – Elvis and Priscilla Presley were style icons, and their incredibly embroidered jumpsuits with flared pants, belt buckles, created by William Belew and Nudy Cohn for the artist, are forever in fashion history. Responsible business is a responsible partner, and Catherine Martin invited Miuccia Prada to the set about her later work: “We delved into the Prada and Miu Miu archives and made costumes of absolute perfection in their workshops.” In general, “Elvis” started with costumes – partly exactly the same (like the combination of a mini, high collar and suede jacket – Priscilla Presley’s famous image from the television studio NBC in 1968), partly inspired only by the aesthetics of the actor. From the 60s and 70s – x multiplied by archival models from Prada and Miu Miu – this is how a modern classic with a vintage twist was born.

Shoe production for Austin Butler was entrusted to Manolo Blahnik, a long-time Elvis Presley fan who first heard him at the age of 12-13 and fell in love with All Shake Up from the first notes. And although the artist did not try to recreate an exact copy of his shoes, he was guided by the fashion of that time, and both modest everyday “drivers” and bold two-tone brogues appeared in the frame.

In total, more than 90 costumes were created for Elvis (and only 90 of them were for Austin Butler), and even B&K Enterprises was involved in its development, developing several gorgeous overalls for Elvis Presley in the nineties.

Catherine Martin has not claimed historical accuracy, but has paid attention to detail, so she wears Elvis in vintage Rolex King Midas – one of a thousand models made after the 1970 Houston Astrodome Livestock Show and Rodeo concert, and her images change with personal transformation – pink from a suit to a tight-fitting black leather and white jumpsuit.

Catherine Martin explained that for Elvis, the fifties were associated with rebellion, then her wardrobe was replenished with classic looks even then – rebellious, but at the height of her fame, in the seventies she changed her biker jackets and pants to flawless white – to match her superstar status. Yes, the costumes in Elvis tell the story of Austin Butler and Olivia DeJong, as well as Elvis Presley. Will they be worthy of an Oscar? Definitely.