I turn back and in front of me, Tablev, who already has a machete, has an entire crowd: Hemologist and Jewelery Diana Janlli, removal of precious stones, the work of a jeweler and the myths of the profession

They say diamonds are the best friends of girls. With their help, they really accept love, ask forgiveness and give the most special dates. Therefore, for many people, the profession of a jeweler is incredibly eye -catching and sloppyly related to something luxury. However, in reality, a completely different world is hidden behind a beautiful façade. The production of stones, the processing and creation of jewelry is an attentive task that requires stoacı patience and iron exposure. Today, the Peopletalk Fast department spoke to a jeweler, hemologist and founder of Diana Janelli, a Dzhanelli brand, and learned how the precious stones were removed and how to work with the Fake Market.

Do you remember the first moment you noticed what you want to do?

It was too long. At the age of 14, I graduated from school and entered Stroganov University. But my father didn’t let me work there. As a result, I went to a textile university at the age of 15 at the Faculty of Applied Art. Among the specialties of the most extraordinary ones, then the profession was the “jewelery steel artist” at that time. 15 years old, I thought I was chosen by chance. And years later I realized that I was brought there and the desire to create beauty. Since the first year, I sat behind the work counter, fixing, soldering, metal processing, jewelry. In my second year, I sold the first suspension for my classmate for 200 dollars. I still remember that. After graduating from the Institute, I was invited to the Moscow Jewelry Factory as an honorable main artist. I worked there for almost six years and then opened my own brand. This year, fifteen years.

You are both a jeweler and a certified gemmologist. How important is it to combine creative and technical thought in the profession?

I’m sure my professional education helps me every day. When I came to the Moscow jewelry factory, I was entrusted with an experimental area – this is a whole floor where many masters work. I was 20 years old and many of them were 50 years old, they had a half -life in the factory. And then a young girl emerges and says: “Do that, there is nothing else.” Of course, nobody perceived me seriously. But then I just rescued from the fact that I sat behind the work bench and showed that what they call “impossible” was actually possible. This skill is still with me. Even now, I often hear from the masters: “It doesn’t work, it’s impossible, it’s not technologically advanced.” And I sit again for the bench and prove: you can.

What knowledge of the stones surprises people the most?

I go to deposits and go down to the mines, communicate with prospectives and buy stones (Prospectors – officially released stones and at the same time “hit – – illegal mines – Approximately. Ed.). It is a very important part of this profession for me. To see where this beauty is born, to feel from the beginning. Talking with people who deal with the removal of stones is a completely different level of communication. I know exactly: the stone is not important on its own, everything is important – where it is located, who was obtained, that it passes their hands. This is an incredible force.

How often do you need to deal with fake in practice?

This is my painful position. Because there are fake and imitations – both of course are very painful. You should deal with it very often, especially when family jewels are brought – grandmother, mother. In 90% of cases, this is fake. What is sold in the mass market does not usually correspond to those declared. Although the labels seem to be specified correctly, not everyone knows how to read them correctly. And if you talk – especially between deposits – the situation is even more sharp. 80 of the 100 stones offered will be synthetic. I think this is the only thing you should know about how often I have encountered a fake.

And which stones are the most difficult and why?

Today, science has advanced, so that even Gemmologists without special equipment cannot always distinguish a laboratory diamond from natural. There are some indicators, but they do not work in any case. Therefore, laboratory diamonds are now the most difficult to diagnose. If we’re talking about working with the customer, I always send stones for a laboratory exam. And can I only give the right answer after the official result of the certificate?

What is more important – the origin of the stone or visual features?

It always depends on the task. For some, its origin is more important for some special visual features. I have stones that are not completely remarkable from the outside, but for me they are exactly valuable by their fields. And there are incredibly beautiful stones, and in their case, it doesn’t matter to me where they come from – aesthetics itself is important. For example, when I was in Colombia, I was looking for a very rare mineral – a quartz genus with emerald revisions. These are only there. I found it, but I couldn’t bring it to Russia – we are banned from imports of raw materials with precious stones. But I saw him, photographed, held in my hands. This is a completely unique feeling – it has not been found anywhere else in the emerald world in the quartz.

It is also usually with rubies and indeed with any stone. One is important for someone, someone is the color of pigeon blood, for example, one-for example, Burma. And someone is looking for together at once, but this is already rare on the threshold of impossible.

How can you be sure that the stone is not only physically, but also ethically “clean”?

I always give an example here. So you go to the restaurant, how can you be sure that the cook is prepared with good and good thoughts for you? Not possible. In the same way with stones. Therefore, I chose my way for myself – I’m going myself, looking at these people’s eyes, talking to them. Of course, there are different stories everywhere. But I’m probably lucky. I meet more often, honest people. And I’m trying to work with them.

My experience of communicating with dealers is about a long relationship. I am a friend with their families, they come to my house in Russia and I – to visit them in their country. This is always about the desire to share trust, respect and beauty. This job cannot be built for “one day”. This is a story in life – not only yours, but also your children, grandchildren, big size. And this connection is the most important.

Which country is the main supplier?

To be honest, I don’t have a “main” country. I work with stones from all over the world. Yes, there are centers where the stones are concentrated, for example, Sri Lanka, Bangkok, Hong Kong. But I’m looking for everywhere.

Tell us the most remembered story about the removal of the stones.

I have many stories, but the brightest is always linked to trips to deposits. The most extraordinary experience was in Africa in one of my favorite deposits. We reached the village of Tablev, where prospectives work. The work there is difficult: under the open sun, in inhuman conditions. Sometimes people come with a very changing consciousness, there are many reasons for this, but now that’s not about it.

At one point, a fight started in the village, someone did not get anything, someone did not understand. Like everything in a movie. But I didn’t agree with it right away, at that moment I wore lunch with lunch for local children. And suddenly I heard I was screaming that I was urgently entering the car. I return, and I have a whole crowd of Tablev, who already has a machete in front of me and started to restrict angry people. But to be honest, I wasn’t afraid. I usually rarely scared in such places. I trust such moments, the universe itself and this land where nature hides these incredible treasures.

What is the hardest thing to find a stone, delivery or customs clearance cleaning?

In today’s facts, of course, the most difficult part is to bring Russia a stone and customs opening. Expensive, difficult and once again expensive.

Is it a logistics or a bureaucracy to move the jewels to Russia?

I will say carefully. For me, this is a story about disrespect for this field. This is like undermining the industry, which is a complete lack of understanding how it works. I see how much the potential of our country has and which incredible resources it stores. However, the attitude towards the jewelry industry is not as if it aimed to develop, but rather destruction. And this leads to strong players to leave the market, because they no longer want to fight or they don’t want to fight. But we can have a very beautiful, very strong voice in the world.

Is it true that the border guards personally recognize the jewelers and especially carefully control them?

Yes.

What was the most romantic legend of the profession you discussed for yourself in the early years?

I never had a romantic legend about the profession. On the contrary, on the contrary. It was often said that the jewels were only for men. But in my course, for example, there were seven girls and only two men. And for any of us, he did not prevent him from sitting behind a counter, working with our hands and pulling wire. Yes, I always cut and cut dirty hands – both then and now. But I don’t think this prevents me from staying a woman. With all its weaknesses and strong sides.

Many believe that a jeweler’s profession is about attraction and luxury. What do you say about it?

I don’t see any connection between a jeweler and the profession of charm. This is a very modern deterioration, the result of how some colleagues give them and work. And there’s nothing wrong with it – we’re just talking about different languages and completely different things.

In general, there is a joke between jewelers: “We can meet too much, we make stones!” Yes, everything outside is beautiful and eye -catching. But the truth is different. This is difficult physical labor. Dirty hands, dirty nails, face in polishing pasta – this is a real picture. No attraction here. There is a full return, love of profession and a great desire to share the world you see.

Does it appear that the injuries of the profession are not only a legend, but a pure fact?

Yes, when you work for an ordinary part of this profession, especially for a bench. On the middle finger of the left hand, we can call a “tattoo iki – silver remains on the skin forever. I saw a puzzle, broken and came under my metal skin. For jewelers, such traces are called “workers”. Of course, there were injuries and more serious. But all this is forgotten when you hold the finished decoration in your hand. And when you see the eyes of a happy customer – everything else disappears, the whole world seems to stop.

Is it true that a jeweler is not essentially an artist, but a craftsman?

No. I do not categorically agree. In my case, this is not a craft for the craft. I am an artist. I just create jewelry, creating stories, and helping people prove themselves. My job is always about beauty, emotions, a sense of freedom and the opportunity to be real.