Even if you are superficially interested in fashion, you know exactly the main achievements of Coco Chanel, the inventions of Christian Dior and the iconic collections of Yves Saint Laurent. Because everyone knows them.
We’ve seen hundreds (if not thousands) of interpretations of the little black dress, several New Look revivals, and countless variations of the women’s tuxedo. The above designers are truly known all over the world and their work is still ongoing. And it is worth noting that it was quite successful.
But not all talented fashion designers can boast that items bearing their name in their logos are now worn by the most influential people in the world, from actors and singers to politicians and businessmen. Many designers who have a great impact on the development of the industry are unjustly forgotten. And today we will try to fix this. We are talking about five fashion designers of the 20th century who changed the industry.
Paul Poiret
If you think Coco Chanel saved women from tight corsets, you are very wrong. This was done by Paul Poiret, the main inventor of the 1910s. Meanwhile, he started by selling workshop sketches and became so successful that he received an offer to work as creative director at Charles Frederick Worth’s fashion house. She did not stay there for long and opened a brand under her own name in 1903. Needless to say, his creations became very popular among the ladies almost immediately. First in Paris, then beyond. One of his regular customers was dancer Isadora Duncan. They say she only wears his designs and calls the designer an artist.
What is the main characteristic of a designer? Paul Poiret coped amazingly with the task of making a revolution without scaring customers. It introduced new silhouettes such as a kimono-sleeved jacket, harem pants or a “lame” skirt. By the way, it was impossible to walk in the second one. But all fashionistas of that time added it to their wish lists without hesitation.
André Courrèges
André Courrèges was a futurist genius and one of the leading designers of the 1960s. He also claims to be the inventor of the miniskirt. But he’s not the only one on his list of inventions. For example, he stopped at the origins of pret-a-porter and compared it to couture tailoring. Andre Courrèges’ collections contained many cosmic (literally) ideas. He worked with unconventional materials such as fashionable acrylic, plastic and polyurethane with a light hand. Courrèges also admired straight, clean lines and architectural silhouettes (his education and profession as a bridge engineer influenced this).
However, by the 1980s, its popularity began to decline due to the designer’s reluctance to adapt to the market. Therefore, the new generation knows almost nothing about the space designer. Meanwhile, the brand was revived in the mid-2010s by Coperni founders Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, with Belgian Nicolas Di Felice taking over the head of the fashion house in 2021.
Mary Quant
If you love mini skirts and wear them both in summer and winter, you have Mary Quant to thank. After all, it was he who first dressed England, and then the whole world, in mini sizes. The inspiration for this provocative invention was images of tap dancers, whose uniform was tight tights and trapezoidal short dresses. Mary Quant recalled years later that the store’s windows were constantly shaking from the blows and the following shouts could be heard outside: “Immoral! Disgusting!
However, the fashion trend had many times (or even dozens of times) more followers, so dangerous minis very quickly adapted to the eventful 1960s. Moreover, they became the personification of the decade. Fun fact: Skirts were so short that Mary Quant had to have panties made to match so her underwear wouldn’t draw attention.
Roy Holston
You may have heard this name if you’ve watched the acclaimed TV series “Halston,” which tells the story of the rise and famous fall of Roy Halston, one of America’s leading designers. So who is he and what is he famous for? Halston began his design career with hats in the second half of the 1950s, and in 1961 he appeared in the creations of US First Lady Jackie Kennedy. Not a bad feat for a beginner, don’t you think? Soon he founded a clothing brand, and Roy himself entered the circle of very influential people. He was friends with Liza Minnelli and Andy Warhol, and dressed Bianca Jagger and Marisa Berenson.
Halston became the first American designer to gain a foothold in the European market. His things fit very harmoniously with the spirit of the times, namely the crazy 70s. Contemporaries even said that the most comfortable dancing in the cult club Studio 54 was in Halston’s creations. But in 1983, the designer made the deal that cost him both his reputation and his clients. The fact is that he reached an agreement with the democratic chain of department stores and created a collection for them. Halston instantly ceased to be seen as exclusive and highly desired. It was not possible to regain reputation. And in 1990 the designer himself died.
Bob Mackie
Fashion designer Bob Mackie never had his own label, but he did have a list of A-list clients and more. She has designed costumes for Cher, Tina Turner, Liza Minnelli, Brooke Shields and many more. Meanwhile, she began her career in the fashion industry as an assistant to Hollywood costume designer Edith Head. And already in 1972, he and Ray Aghayan were nominated for an Oscar for best costume design in the film Lady Sings the Blues, starring Diana Ross.
But Bob Mackie’s main muse was and remains Cher. He created the craziest images for her. Remember the feathered outfit Cher wore to the Oscars in 1986? So this is all his job. The designer’s high-profile creations don’t end there. At the same Oscars in 1991, Madonna appeared as Marilyn Monroe. The tight white dress decorated with rhinestones was created for her by Bob Mackie.
However, despite all the designer’s achievements and an impressive list of celebrity clients, the general public knows almost nothing about him.
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Source: People Talk
Elizabeth Cabrera is an author and journalist who writes for The Fashion Vibes. With a talent for staying up-to-date on the latest news and trends, Elizabeth is dedicated to delivering informative and engaging articles that keep readers informed on the latest developments.
