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Margaret Qualley leads the way at Chanel’s tutu-filled Spring-Summer 2024 Haute Couture show

Margaret Qualley leads the way at Chanel’s tutu-filled Spring-Summer 2024 Haute Couture show

Opening with a short film directed by Julie Gayet, starring Margaret Qualley, Naomi Campbell and Anna Mouglalis, with music by Kendrick Lamar, Chanel’s Spring-Summer 2024 Haute Couture show calls for ballerina tutus, balletcore for maximum pleasure and flirtatious tendencies.

The figure of the ballerina has long inspired fashion, but now it returns more forceful than ever, worn above all by trends balletcore AND flirtatious on TikTok. Presented on January 23 at the Grand Palais Éphémère, this Chanel Spring-Summer 2024 Haute Couture show by Virginie Viard pushes beyond the tutu.

Avalanche of ballerinas in tutus and white tights at the Chanel Spring-Summer 2024 Haute Couture show

While the one worn by Sarah Jessica Parker in the end credits of Sex and the city just sold at auction for 52,000 dollars by Julien, Chanel also makes its little pas de deux. After some white tweed suits worn with a transparent and colorless skirt to better emphasize the use of opaque white tights, it was an avalanche of powdery tulle that conquered the podium. An obvious inspiration for the house of Chanel, which has been dressing ballets since 1924 and remains the first patron of the Paris Opera. Furthermore, the brighter colors come from the world of Léon Bakst, the costume designer of the Ballets Russes.

Margaret Qualley leads the way at Chanel’s tutu-filled Spring-Summer 2024 Haute Couture show
Margaret Qualley opened Chanel’s Spring-Summer 2024 Haute Couture show // Source: Courtesy of Chanel

Julie Gayet directs a short film for Chanel starring Margaret Qualley, Naomi Campbell and Anna Mouglalis

As well as opening the show (in an adorable strawberry collar with signature charm), actress Margaret Qualley, who studied ballet, was also the star of a short film, The button, directed by Julie Gayet and presented at the opening of the show (and which you can see in its entirety on the Chanel website). About her She plays a New Yorker who comes to Paris to replace the lost button on her grandmother’s Chanel jacket. But the story doesn’t say whether she’s trying to get a discount thanks to the new textile repair bonus that comes into effect in France in October 2023. Homebody Naomi Campbell plays the assistant, while longtime ambassador Anna Mouglalis plays Gabrielle Chanel (for a change). All punctuated by a new track by Kendrick Lamar (the rapper is an ambassador for the house).


It’s another haute couture collection that highlights know-how in dizzying detail when you have the luxury of looking closely, and not grabbing attention on memoryless social media feeds. Finally, we note that the bride in the finale did not wear trousers together with her dress which stops at the buttocks, confirming the fashion industry’s propensity for this trend no pants, impractical for mere mortals. More realistic, but equally divisive, this show surpasses the popularity of opaque tights. If reds already reign on TikTok, we remain skeptical about the white proposed by Chanel leading the dance of know-how, but not necessarily that of trends.

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Listen to Apéro des Daronnes, Madmoizelle’s show that aims to break down taboos on parenting.

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