Since Alessandro Michele left the artistic direction of Gucci following the spring-summer 2023 show, Gucci has remained somewhat under the fashion radar. Indeed, the design studio struggled to follow up on the maximalist trend in the form of an exquisite corpse from the historical periods of the designer who had managed to increase the growth of the Florentine house tenfold during his reign from 2015 to 2022. But here it is. Exactly one year later, the first collection of the new artistic director Sabato De Sarno has just presented in Milan, particularly eagerly awaited in turn.
Coming from the Valentino studio (artistically directed by Pierpaolo Piccioli), Sabato De Sarno had an opposite vision to his maximalist predecessor Alessandro Michele. Away with eccentricity, welcome a minimalist style that allows you to focus on the precision of cuts, proportions and accessories.
What to remember from Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci spring-summer 2024 show?
From the first look the tone was clear: a gray overcoat in cold wool, a white tank top, black micro-shorts adorned with a black double G belt. A simple silhouette in shades of gray that better highlighted the accessories: a burgundy Jackie horsebit wedge bag and loafers (clearly future It-shoes) in the same wine shade.
Several variations on the same theme followed: a well-structured coat or jacket over micro-shorts or a mini-skort (short skirt). Stockings so short that the models’ buttocks stuck out well beyond them. In the same proportions, several very Sixties minidresses also punctuated the show. Few motifs, aside from a moderate use of the monogram and web stripe (i.e. a framed red stripe on each side of two green stripes) attracted attention amid the use of predominantly solid colors, including much burgundy, apple green and denim blue. This also allowed us to highlight the rich crystal embroidery work on the bags and some final dresses (in duchess satin decorated with a crystal grid overdress), as well as the contrasts in shine between very opaque pieces and patent leather.
The new artistic director Sabato De Sarno offers Gucci a déjà vu, sexy and bankable
A front row made up in particular of Julia Roberts, Ryan Gosling, Paul Mescal, Bad Bunny, Kendall Jenner and Mark Ronson (who also signed the soundtrack of the fashion show, marked in particular by the lesbian anthem ” I love her » by Romy) was in the front row in this new Gucci. But this show called “Gucci Ancora” (“Gucci Encore”) had the feel of déjà vu. It was more reminiscent of the porno-chic style of Tom Ford (CEO of the fashion house from 1994 to 2003) than the more historical-qwerky style of Alessandro Michele (from 2015 to 2022). Except we hoped that this era oozing the objectification of women was over, even if some designers support it independent clothing (exhibition of skin and lingerie to dress as naked as possible, presumably to reclaim one’s body and sexuality). In fact it has almost become an obligatory step, or rather a safe choice for young designers who focus entirely on the nostalgia of a bygone era to propose ready-to-wear that is already desired, already digested. Already obsolete?
While Gucci achieved more than 5 billion euros in revenue in the first half of 2023 alone (stagnant, but still impressive figures) for François-Henri Pinault’s Kering group, this collection already smacks of -vu maybe it won’t reinvent loafers, but he could continue to make it sell like hotcakes.
Source: Madmoizelle
Mary Crossley is an author at “The Fashion Vibes”. She is a seasoned journalist who is dedicated to delivering the latest news to her readers. With a keen sense of what’s important, Mary covers a wide range of topics, from politics to lifestyle and everything in between.
