“Would you like to work in New York? Do you know what it takes to get it done?”: What has changed in the industry with the flip side of the modeling job and the cancellation culture and the emergence of the Me Too movement?

Fashion weeks, camera flashes, glossy magazines and shoots for thousands of fans – a modeling career has long been a blue dream that almost all young girls want to fulfill. Even now, the number of “How to model” Google queries exceeds 50,000 per month, and this is only in Russia.

Almost certainly, every second reader of our material tried to smile with his eyes (as bequeathed by the unique Tyra Banks), litter the apartment hallway without anyone looking, and arrange crazy photo shoots at home.

However, there is another side to this glamorous profession – less bright and attractive. There’s hours of casting behind the scenes, agency failures, filming cuts, and of course, harassment. The last issue is the most painful because almost all famous supermodels have encountered it.

How did the modeling business work before the Me Too movement?

Kate Moss, Emily Ratajkowski, Bella Hadid, Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell and many more spoke of being harassed by photographers, agencies and producers. The list of victims tends to literally infinity. With the emergence of the Me Too movement, the horror of the models was finally voiced out loud. Without shame or boredom. Moreover, many authoritative publications conducted special studies that exposed the Weinsteins of the fashion world.

One of the most high-profile material was the BBC investigation into the Elite Model Management agency, where an elite brothel was hiding behind the beautiful façade. The girls told the broadcast about the harassment of agency head Gerald Marie. The scariest thing about this story is that everyone knows about it, but it’s been silent for 40 years.

Meanwhile, many remained silent. For example, Kate Moss told her story only last year. In a conversation with a BBC Radio 4 reporter, she said she first encountered harassment when she was 15. “I had a terrible experience shooting a lingerie catalogue. “Take off your top,” the photographer said without ceremony. And then I got really embarrassed about my body and almost burst into tears. Then she wanted to take off her bra. I felt something was wrong, I took my stuff and ran,” she said.

However, not everyone was able to escape. For example, 1990s French model Tisia Huisman said she was raped and drugged by modeling agent Jean-Luc Brunel.

There are many such stories (of varying intensity). And the Russian modeling industry is no exception. To be convinced of this once again, we suggest you mentally transport yourself to the end of the 2000s and read the story of a girl who feels everything herself.

Disclaimer: The names and surnames of the characters have been changed for security reasons.

History of harassment in Russian industry

In 2008, I got into one of the largest modeling agencies in Russia. We did sports several times a week, podium classes and other things on the list. I started shooting for small magazines and brands. Considering that I am only 18 years old, the beginning of my career was promising.

And so, a few months later, they arranged a so-called team building for us and took us to Arkhangelskoye, to a large complex. It had a pool, spa, manicure salon and tennis court. In a word, luxury. As it turned out later, it was not just a complex, but the house of a wealthy uncle from the Forbes list. I won’t name names, but the person is quite famous.

In general, my girlfriends and I went to the jacuzzi next to the pool. And then ten girls aged 15-16 run – it was clear that they were still far from adulthood – and jump into the pool. We sit in complete shock, but then everything gets worse. The owner of the house appears at the door. I just want to note right away that she is wearing a silk robe. He comes up to me, crouches in front of me and says, “How old are you?” he asks. I answer: “18”. In the next question he asked if I was a virgin. Then I lost the power to speak, but I decided to tell the truth and answered: “Yes.” He said one thing to it: “Take off your swimsuit, swim bare” and then he was gone. I thought this was the end, but no.

About half an hour later he came to me and asked me to go with him. I have a panic, I put on my robe and go with it. He took me to the room where the bed was. I can’t stand it here and I start sobbing like crazy. She calmly says: “Anna, I only have sex with virgins. You understand how it all works.” And at that moment I start to get hysterical and my only thought is that now they’re going to rape me.

He continues in the same calm voice: “Well, you want to work in New York, right? Do you know what needs to be done for this?” This conversation lasted for about ten minutes, and then, “Okay, don’t worry. Just sit and think.” I really sat and thought. Those tears saved me from being raped.

The next day I was called to the agency to the boss, who literally asked through the door: “What kind of kindergarten did you set up there? I don’t want to see that again.” Since I left the agency, he didn’t really see “this” anymore. By the way, it still exists and is still considered one of the most prestigious.

Anna Sh.

How has the industry changed?

Yes, the previous story happened 15 years ago. Then there were other rules and other laws, and the influential people were very aware that they would go unpunished. Therefore, the phrase “out of bed” at that time was more relevant than others. This is why the modeling business has a dubious reputation. But what’s going on now? Have the Me Too movement and culture of cancellation helped change the industry and remove any hint of harassment in the industry? It’s hard to judge but some important steps have been taken.

In 2017, model Cameron Russell launched a flash mob called #MyJobShouldNotIncludeAbuse (“My job is harassment free”). Dozens of models joined the action, reporting violence and harassment by photographers, booksellers, customers and agencies.

One of the first to react to this flash gang was the Kering holding. In the same 2017, they announced the requirements for brands (including Givenchy, Dior, Saint Laurent, Marc Jacobs, Alexander McQueen, and Gucci) to work with models.

A year later, in January 2018, Conde Nast published a new set of rules for working with models.

As for the cancellation culture, it made itself felt. In January 2018, the models stated that sexual intercourse was one of the conditions for working with photographer Mario Testino. And refusing to shoot with this particular photographer could put an end to your entire modeling career. After this scandal, Vogue refused to work with Mario Testino any further. Approximately the same fate overtook photographer Bruce Weber.

However, all these “laws” were written only for large companies that could not handle a single reputation scandal. And in small agencies there are cases when their representatives deliberately ignore it.

I was in a small modeling agency in 2019. And then one day, through him, I was offered to shoot evening dresses of an unknown brand. True, they immediately announced that the apartment on Novokuznetskaya was chosen as the location. It confused me a bit, but I accepted anyway. When I came to the shoot, I immediately felt that something was wrong. First, the client looked at me with a clearly carnivorous look and wasn’t even shy about it. The latter, for some reason, began to measure my parameters, simultaneously clawing my body. Third, in another room, a girl poses for a photographer in her underwear.

In general, everything looked as strange as it could be, but I came here to make money, so I decided not to pay attention to what I saw. Then we entered a room converted into a photography studio. Then he slammed the door and jumped right over me. I started yelling and he kept undressing me as if he hadn’t heard anything. I pushed him away and ran towards the exit. I was lucky that he wasn’t so persistent and strong. Otherwise, things might not have ended so well.

But the most offensive thing happened later when I came to the agency and told them what had happened. All they told me was: “Well, it will. No one is exempt from this.” By the way, I didn’t tell this story to anyone because I was afraid my parents and boyfriend would forbid me from modeling.

Katya S.

How do modeling agencies respond to model complaints?

After this story, we decided to write to several modeling agencies to find out what they do in such situations. Avant Models declined to participate in the material, but Aurora Models did comment.

“Actually, such situations are very common in which a man appears to be a customer or a producer, although in reality he is not. If the model receives a serious complaint about the customer, we stop working with it. We are also trying to warn all our colleagues against such situations.”

This attitude of the agency towards the models is really pleasing. What about those who are freelancers and not affiliated with a company? Unfortunately, to protect yourself, you need to be careful and not take part in dubious adventures. Although this doesn’t always help either. And the story of our next hero is the best proof of that.

This story happened to me about three years ago. I already worked at a modeling agency, shot for brands and dreamed of being the face of Jacquemus. Yes, I was 19 and I was sane. In general, I met a very famous photographer at one of the parties. He said that he really wanted to take my picture and that he believed I had a chance to be the second Irina Shayk. Then she added that she could help me with this. Inspired by these words, I imagined myself on the covers of Vogue and Paris Fashion Week.

The next day he texted me and offered to schedule a shoot. I immediately accepted. The weather was nice, so we shot on the street first, and then he offered to move into his apartment. I didn’t see any tricks in this and we were at her house in half an hour. At first we really took pictures and then he offered us a drink. After a while it all turned into foreplay and then we slept together. Yes, it’s that simple. He’s a nice guy, so I generally didn’t mind. Also, I thought it would be good overall if it helped me in my career.

I went home that night and the next morning the photographer stopped answering me. Of course I didn’t buy any framework for the portfolio. At that moment, I felt how shamelessly I had been deceived. I felt like I couldn’t get rid of the dirt and blamed myself for sleeping with him for too long. By the way, only a close friend of mine knew about my story until then.

Olga D.

instead of output

Despite loud statements from major fashion brands, companies and modeling agencies, many girls and boys still face various forms of harassment and abuse. Yes it got smaller but it didn’t disappear anywhere. Unfortunately, no one has yet been able to completely eliminate this problem. That’s why all we at The Fashion Vibes can do is continue to report on important issues and deliver stories that have been covered for years.

Commentary text: Ekaterina Ustkachintseva