” In an era defined by extroversion, this autumn-winter 2023-2024 women’s show presents a resolutely introverted proposition in terms of silhouette, textures and the way materials react to light. », explains the note of intent for the Loewe autumn-winter 2023-2024 fashion show, imagined by its current artistic director, Jonathan Anderson and presented on March 3, 2023 as part of Paris Fashion Week.
By superimposing the past of fashion on the present to question its materiality
For this Loewe autumn-winter 2023-2024 collection, artistic director Jonathan Anderson wanted to question the ghosts of fashion. This partly explains why some old clothes (dating mainly from the 1940s and 1950s) have been printed on others, as if the present of fashion is trying to re-appropriate the past. Or that the latter has come to haunt contemporary creation. These deliberately blurred trompe-l’oeil impressions have also made it possible to question the gap between the image one can have of a garment, especially when one sees it in 2D online, and its material reality in 3D. And there’s nothing like a hyper-mediated fashion show to plunge this reflection into the abyss.
It’s a dress… It’s a bag… It’s a dress-without-a-bag!
” It’s a bird… it’s a plane… it’s Superman “, we can read in the original comics or hear in the adaptations of the superhero’s adventures. Well, in this Loewe autumn-winter 2023-2024 show, Jonathan Anderson imagined several shirt dresses in satin or soft leather, which seemed to be caught on the chain shoulder strap of a handbag. Just enough to give the impression that the dress stands up, or that it merges with the accessory, while the latter is precisely non-existent, and therefore shines with its spectral absence.
It simulates the casualness of a t-shirt and jeans, but entirely in goose down
Still in his desire for false optical illusions, all too visible to fool their world, this Loewe Autumn-Winter 2023-2024 collection also included several looks made entirely of goose feathers: here, a sweatshirt, there, shorts, and why no jeans and a t-shirt. Or dress relatively random originally, but treated in a precious material, which requires a lot of know-how in feather processing. A walking fashion paradox for fashion fanatics.
Garments taped to the body or molded to come off
Another ocular mirage walked the catwalk of this Loewe autumn-winter 2023-2024 show: what looked like cardigans were actually an item of clothing printed on adhesive film, attached to the body. Other pieces are already going viral on TikTok for their resemblance to Polly Pocket’s clothes: leather garments shaped to appear to levitate around the body.
Confetti cubes by the artist Lara Favaretto as scenography
A great lover of art, the artistic director of the Loewe house, Jonathan Anderson, has entrusted the artist Lara Favaretto with the task of creating well-packed cubes of confetti to punctuate the enormous white cube that has been the setting for this autumn-winter 2023 – Postmodern fashion show 2024.
Source: Madmoizelle
Mary Crossley is an author at “The Fashion Vibes”. She is a seasoned journalist who is dedicated to delivering the latest news to her readers. With a keen sense of what’s important, Mary covers a wide range of topics, from politics to lifestyle and everything in between.
