Glycolic acid: what it is, what are its properties, benefits and 5 products to try in your routine

With an ever expanding beauty dictionary, where new formulations and active ingredients find their way among the traditional cosmetic ingredients, it is essential to know which parts of the beauty board are the most effective and which are therefore most beneficial to our skin. An example of this is the Glycolic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid that acts as one of the most powerful exfoliants in the AHA family. As Anna Fuster, a skincare coach with a master’s degree in dermopharmacy and cosmetic formulation, tells us: “It is an exfoliating acid, responsible for renewing or restructuring the most superficial layer of the skin. This means that through a chemical reaction it undoes the cell connections that exist between the outer cells of the skin’s corneal extract, those are dead cells, which makes the skin look duller and grayer, without too much light. When we remove these, the skin looks more radiant.”

But why is glycolic acid so popular in the beauty world? Because of its penetrating power. Extracted from sugar cane, it is the substance most commonly used by dermatologists to perform peeling treatments. Of all the AHAs out there, glycol is one of the AHAs that contains the smallest molecule. What does that mean? Being the smallest molecule, it is able to penetrate more and be one of the most powerful and effective available. Its low molecular weight allows it to reach the deepest layers of the skin, regenerate at a cellular level and stimulating the production of collagen.

Rachel Keys, dermo-aesthetic nurse, tells us that “As we age, this cell regeneration slows down, so we need extra help. And pay attention to the following fact: every minute we can lose between 30,000 and 50,000 dead cells from our skin. It is estimated that we collect 750 grams of dead cells per year, which corresponds to 3 chicken breasts. Incredibly true? If it doesn’t come off, it clogs pores, making it difficult for creams and serums to work efficiently.” Hence this kind exfoliating acids are so necessary in the beauty routine of older women (as well as a preventive technique for young skin).

The main feature of glycolic acid is that promotes cell renewal. It is ideal for dry, dull skin in need of revitalization and acne-prone or blemished skin. Piluca Barrau, a pharmacist specialized in dermatology, tells us about the benefits of glycolic acid treatments:

• Improve skin tone and texture and that it looks more unified. The function of glycolic acid is moisturizing, due to its ability to retain water molecules, but above all it is exfoliating, as it will help us to reduce the connection between the cells (chondrocytes of the epidermis) and thereby trigger an exfoliation, that is say , it speeds up the cell exchange cycle, removes old cells from the surface of the face and makes new ones appear, which are of better quality.
• Helps treat acne tendencies with great efficiency. The use of glycolic acid is more indicated in skin with acne, as it eliminates the blockage in the follicle, especially comedones that occur in acne-prone skin and inflammatory lesions of pimples.
• Minimizes expression wrinkles, by increasing the volume of the skin. It is a good retexturizer for our face, it makes our skin finer and makes our face shine with its own light.
• Naturally stimulates the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid, essential to give elasticity, resistance and firmness to our face, both in this day and age and in the prevention of premature aging.

On the other hand, when winter arrives, the skin suffers even more from the low temperatures and the wind, which is when exfoliation becomes more important again, giving glycolic acid a leading role. But be careful, we need to know which formulation is right for our skin type, as in extreme cases it can lead to excessive exfoliation, weakening the skin barrier and promoting sensitivity.

As Anna Fuster explains, “Glycolic acid is one of the most powerful acids, but also one of those most likely to irritate or sensitize the skin, so it is normally recommended for more resistant skin or more sensitive skin, in a smaller amount, once a week . Glycolic acid is normally used in concentrations of 5% to a maximum of 20-25%, between 5% and 10% for more sensitive skin, once or twice a week. And then already, in very resistant skins we can use between 10% and 20%.”

There are many products and countless treatments to introduce this exfoliating acid into our skincare routine, but which is the most recommended or effective for our skin? “I really like using it in serum format. There are also disc options that are impregnated with this acid or even in a cream. I usually recommend between 10% and 20%, and normally once a week because we already use other products or others salicyl lotions to improve the pores, for example. These types of products contain other exfoliating acids, and in order not to over-exfoliate the skin, I usually only recommend a glycolic acid once a week to give that hydration shot. And I always recommend supplementing them with a moisturizer or mask.“ Fuster phrase.

And if you’re looking for a cabin treatment, the Rachel Keys center offers a variety of glycolic acid-based treatments, such as chemical peel, a treatment is performed after performing a facial cleansing, applying a mixture of glycolic acid and a neutralizing agent, which both exfoliates and soothes the skin. golf facial mesotherapya treatment administered through superficial micro-injections, with substances such as glycolic acid to achieve an improvement in the tone, hydration, elasticity, clarity and sagging of the face, neck and décolleté. The combination of both treatments is very effective for exfoliation and cell regeneration, making our skin glow, with a youthful and, above all, healthy appearance.

The combination of both treatments is very effective for exfoliation and cell regeneration, making our skin glow, with a youthful and, above all, healthy appearance. Therefore, whether you are one of those who pamper themselves product by product, or one of those who opt for a treatment performed by professionals, but with short breaks where an effective product gives you that renewal from home, we have made a selection of different cosmetics where glycolic acid is vital and super effective.

It is a peel based on 3 acids: glycolic acid, salicylic acid and hyaluronic acid to exfoliate the skin, stimulate epidermal renewal, improve blemishes, blemishes, reduce blackheads and improve texture (with less visible pores). Get a much more radiant, smooth skin, with fewer wrinkles and a uniform complexion.

Suggested retail price: €30.33

Vichy’s Liftactiv Specialist Glyco C ampoules are one of the highlights of cosmetics with glycolic acid, as they reduce blemishes after 30 days and correct blemishes and pigmentation after 60 days. What’s your differential? In addition to glycolic acid, they have other perfect allies within the same formula: Vitamin C, which helps to reduce dark spots, Vichy Volcanic Water, which strengthens the skin barrier against external aggressions, and Hyaluronic Acid, which is responsible for re-densifying, moisturizing and softening.

Suggested retail price: € 16.98

To ensure maximum efficacy, tolerability and safety of the treatment, Collistar researchers carefully controlled the pH and concentration of glycolic acid, in addition to adding two other alpha hydroxy acids: mandelic acid and gluconic acid, which complete and modulate the action. Designed to be used daily, it performs an effective but gradual and non-aggressive peeling that, day after day, renews the skin and helps it restore its ideal perfection. Formula without perfume, alcohol or dyes.

Suggested retail price: €47

Glycolic acid is one of the most effective anti-aging active ingredients. And in Acglicolic serum, it is liposomal, guaranteeing never-before-achieved penetration levels, more effective results and greater tolerance. It is the “all-inclusive” of anti-aging serums. Hydrates, has a gentle peeling effect that accelerates cell turnover and reduces the depth of wrinkles. In addition, it contains antioxidant and renewing active ingredients. Use it morning and evening, before your usual cream and you will notice the results.

Suggested retail price: € 46.95

It is an encapsulated 10% time-release glycolic acid that keeps irritation low and keeps the skin barrier healthy. Something like a powerful at-home peel, ideal to prepare a first peeling program or to complete it between sessions. The effectiveness of acid exfoliating products largely depends on two factors: the acid concentration and the pH of the formula. Sleep Glycolic has a pH of 3.5 with 10% active glycolic acid that offers great efficacy and penetrates deep into the skin.

Suggested retail price: €49