Orientation North: How birch sap became the new coconut water in cosmetics

Although white birch is considered a primitive Russian tree, which Sergey Yesenin loved and sang very much, adding its derivatives (extracts of bark, leaves and juice) to cosmetics, it was estimated at several thousand kilometers in the east – in Korea. At first, birch extracts began to appear in the products of all favorite Asian brands (for example, CosRX), and a little later Western brands fell in love with them – Dr. Hauschka, Origins, Lumene. And the splendor of the new coconut water, which is often used as the basis for cosmetic products, is completely settled in birch sap.

One of the main advantages of birch sap is its low molecular weight. Therefore, it is better absorbed into the skin, carries useful substances with it and helps it retain moisture. So, birch sap contains:

– Vitamin B3 or niacinamide, which helps to even out the skin;

– Vitamin C, which brightens the skin and stimulates cell regeneration;

– 17 amino acids, enzymes, proteins and antioxidants that help strengthen the skin’s barrier function, heal tissue and protect against environmental stressors.

The properties of birch sap have been studied for many years, and one of the recent experiments showed that replacing water in cosmetics stimulates the activity of keratinocytes, the main cells of the human epidermis. In other words, fruit juice-based products have a positive effect on the protective functions and health of the skin. And by the way, it’s not just the skin. Birch sap was used to strengthen hair in Russia, so it is not surprising that even now it is added as the main ingredient in nourishing shampoos and balms.

Most often, birch sap is found in Korean cosmetics. Its real follower is the brand Soofee. Birch sap is used at the base of all products of the brand – from moisturizer to cleansing foam. And in the assortment of the Korean brand CosRX, beloved among Russian girls, there is a lotion “birch”.

Korean brands switched the baton to foreign brands, namely the well-known Finnish Lumen (by the way, birch is recognized in Finland as a national tree). Usually, the main ingredients in their formula are gifts of Arctic nature – spring water, cranberry, cranberry and cranberry. And recently, the brand has a line based on birch sap – Nordic Hydra [Lähde].

While in Russia birch sap is not in great demand as a cosmetic ingredient. Brands that use it include natural Tasha and Russian Traditions. But we think the bigger players in the beauty industry will soon reach for birch sap.