How to understand that cosmetics will not benefit you? beautician answers

Cosmetic manufacturers often describe their products as unique and capable of rejuvenating the skin in just a few applications. But such words should be treated with skepticism – it is better to look at the composition and draw conclusions on your own. Which components will not be useful, and conversely, which can be trusted? Elvira Yurkevich, a beautician and founder of a network of professional cosmetics and cosmetic stores, told us and you about it.

Elvira Yurkevich

Which items do not work?

Many ingredients that seem important and beneficial at first glance are actually ineffective or not effective at all. Some are even harmful. Such items include:

· mineral oil

These are remnants of gasoline production used for industrial purposes. Manufacturers often claim that the substance can lock moisture in the epidermis. In fact, the oil forms a water-repellent film that prevents the removal of toxins. There is nothing useful here: in fact, it is tantamount to giving up on the constant cleansing of the skin.

· collagen and elastin

Contrary to popular belief, collagen and elastin in cosmetics cannot compensate for the natural deficiency of these proteins in the body (we wrote more about why here). The molecules of these substances are produced in laboratories and their size is too large to penetrate the outer layer of the skin. They form a film on their face, which can be easily washed off when washing.

· glycerol

Brands claim that this substance effectively moisturizes the skin of dry and normal types. However, favorable conditions are needed for a positive result. In particular, glycerin can only work at an air humidity of 65%. Otherwise, cosmetics with glycerin dries the skin and, conversely, takes moisture from it.

· Lanolin

Although lanolin has a softening effect, it works like petroleum jelly made from mineral oil due to its high density. As a result, blackheads and an oily sheen may appear on the skin.

· Albumin

Whey protein obtained from the blood of bulls. When it dries, it forms a thin film that tightens the skin and hides wrinkles. But the problem is that immediately after removing the cosmetics from the face, the entire effect will go to zero.

What should you pay attention to in cosmetics?

The most effective and useful components are active substances. Among them:

· Alpha hydroxy acid (referred to as AHA) – Supports exfoliation of dead skin scales, softens wrinkles, prevents acne formation.

· C vitamin – Rejuvenates the skin and brightens its tone.

· hyaluronic acid – Makes the skin more elastic, moisturizes, fights wrinkles.

· retinol — It hides the signs of aging, reduces the visibility of wrinkles, increases skin elasticity.

· Salicylic acid – Fights acne and pimples.

· ceramides – Renews the skin’s natural protective barrier and prevents it from being damaged.

· niacinamide – Fights skin irritation.

· Vitamin E – helps reduce inflammation.

· Sulfur – It is used in the treatment of acne and seborrhea, it kills harmful bacteria.

· Argan oil – It has anti-inflammatory and moisturizing effect, fights sunburn, heals the skin.

These are just a few of the beneficial ingredients. In reality there is much more than these: proteins, vegetable and essential oils, probiotics and prebiotics, antioxidants, vitamins, acids and others.

How to read the composition of cosmetics?

When choosing cosmetics, the first thing you need to pay attention to the composition. In it, all components are indicated according to the INCI international nomenclature rules.

Ingredients with more than 1% content are arranged in descending order: the closer the ingredient is to the top of the list, the higher its concentration. Items with less than 1% content are written at the end of the list in random order.

Useful and effective ingredients are not necessarily mentioned at the top of the list. In particular, retinol and amino acids act in small concentrations, so they can be found at the end of the composition.

When choosing a cosmetic product, do not forget about the main rule – the product should be suitable for the type and condition of the skin. Even the best quality cosmetics rich in beneficial substances may not work or be harmful if they do not meet your needs.