A ban on a chemical used in gel nail polish has taken effect in the United Kingdom following research linking the substance to fertility problems. UK manufacturers are now forbidden from using Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide, known as TPO, and salons using polishes containing the ingredient could face prosecution starting early next year.
The chemical, which is used to harden polish under ultraviolet light, has been banned in the European Union since September. Studies found that rats exposed to TPO developed significant reproductive problems. Research has also suggested the chemical could act as an endocrine disruptor, which is a substance that interferes with hormones.
The World Health Organisation classes endocrine disruptors as a global threat, noting that some studies have linked high exposure to an increased risk of diabetes, developmental problems and some cancers.
Britons spend around £160 million on nail treatments every year, making them the most popular beauty therapy in the UK. The legislation has prompted online debate about the safety of gel manicures, acrylics and Builder In A Bottle treatments.
Gel manicures and allergies
Gel manicures remain one of the UK's most popular nail treatments, prized for their chip-resistant, glossy finish that can last for weeks. There are two main types: pure gel and Shellac, a hybrid polish that lasts roughly half as long. Before the polish is applied, a nail technician lightly buffs the nail to help the product adhere, and then cures it under a UV lamp. The polish is removed by soaking the nail in acetone and scraping it away.
Gel products contain chemicals called acrylates, which harden when exposed to UV or LED light. Until recently, some formulations also contained TPO to trigger this hardening process. Dermatologists have raised concerns about allergies linked to acrylates. Uncured gel that comes into contact with the skin can trigger an allergic reaction in a small number of people, and these allergies can be permanent once developed.
Concerns have also been raised about the UV lamps used to cure the polish. A 2023 study found that radiation emitted by the lamps could damage skin cells in lab studies, prompting fears over a possible cancer risk. However, experts say the real-world risk to salon customers is likely to be small, as the UV exposure from occasional gel manicures is substantially lower than the cumulative sun exposure that remains the leading cause of skin cancer. For those who remain concerned, some dermatologists recommend applying sunscreen to the backs of the hands before an appointment.
Nail technicians are advised to wear masks while working because they are also exposed to higher levels of chemicals that have been linked to cancer.
Safe application and removal
Despite the ban on TPO, experts stress that gel manicures themselves are not inherently unsafe. Many manufacturers and salons have already switched to TPO-free alternatives, which tend to be free from fragrance and chemicals called phthalates. Customers can look for labels that state this on polishes.
Caroline Rainsford, the director of the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association, or CTPA, said all cosmetic nail products sold in the UK must comply with strict safety regulations and undergo extensive assessments before reaching the market.
"A key misconception about cosmetic products is that they contain ingredients which are toxic or dangerous," Rainsford said. "This is absolutely not the case, and the UK and EU Cosmetics Regulations are there to make sure that no ingredients in cosmetic products can cause us harm."
Rainsford advised customers against misusing products. "Don't use products at home which are labelled as being for professionals only," she said. "Avoid getting the product on the skin, use the correct lamp to fully cure gel nails, and make sure any leftover product is removed carefully to avoid skin contact."
Nail experts say the biggest risk to nail health often comes not from the gel itself, but from the way it is applied and removed. Donia Chrifi, the founder of the natural nail care brand SWANKY, said aggressive filing over time will cause visible damage.
"Any sort of over-buffing is going to damage the nail," Chrifi said. "If every time you go into the salon your nails are filed aggressively, over time you will see that damage."
Builder gel and acrylics
Builder In A Bottle, also known as BIAB, was marketed as a gentler alternative to acrylics. The thick gel coating acts as a protective shell containing extra molecules called oligomers, which provide thickness and strength while remaining flexible. This shields nails from day-to-day knocks and breakages, helping people grow longer nails.
However, experts say BIAB does not necessarily improve the health of the natural nail underneath. Chrifi said this is one of the biggest myths in the nail world.
"Your natural nails will grow underneath BIAB, because you've got this thick layer of builder gel protecting them from breaking," Chrifi said. "But it won't miraculously restore the strength of your natural nails."
While BIAB is generally considered gentler than acrylics, repeated application and aggressive removal can leave the natural nails underneath feeling thinner, weaker or more prone to breaking.
Acrylic nails are created by mixing a liquid and powder to form an acrylic substance, which is often applied over a plastic tip that has been glued on to the natural nail to add extension. The result is one of the most durable manicure finishes available, with a fresh set lasting for several weeks.
While the CTPA maintains that rigorous safety checks mean nail products in the UK should not pose significant harm, the removal of acrylics can cause long-lasting damage. Repeated application and removal can gradually strip away keratin, the protein that gives nails their strength and structure.
"Acrylics are great for durability, but they require the most intervention to the natural nail," Chrifi said.
Leaving acrylics on for too long can also risk trapping moisture beneath them, experts warn, creating a breeding ground for bacteria. While infections are relatively minor, they can develop into something more serious if left untreated, where nails have to be removed.
The Japanese manicure
The Japanese manicure has been quietly building a cult following for its natural, low-maintenance approach to nail care. The no-polish treatment gives nails a natural shine and a break from any chemical substance. The Princess of Wales' affinity for barely-there, natural manicures is well documented, and is reminiscent of the trending Japanese manicure.
The process involves buffing the nails with a mineral-rich paste, often made from algae, followed by a powder containing beeswax to provide a sought-after glossy finish. Advocates say the treatment is restorative.
Chrifi considers Japanese manicures the healthiest option for people looking to restore their nail health. "Obviously, the more natural something is, the better it is for your nails," she said.
"A Japanese manicure is a very nourishing treatment focused entirely on the natural nail, using products worked into the nail plate to help condition it and improve its appearance," Chrifi said.
"When you're giving your nails a 'break' it's actually more important to have regular manicures to protect and restore your natural nails," she said. "A lot of people don't do this and often talk about letting their nails 'breathe', but nails don't breathe. What they really need is gentle care, hydration and time for healthy new nail to grow."
Experts at the CTPA agreed.
"The visible part of the nail is formed from dead cells, and therefore does not need to 'breathe' or be exposed to the air to remain healthy," the organisation said. "But improper application or removal of gel manicures, as well as over-filing can potentially cause damage to the surface. In these cases, nails should be given a break to help them maintain their natural strength and avoid thinning or weakening."
