Sofia pushes the paddle deep into the brick oven and pulls out a steaming loaf of bread in the crisp morning sun. The base gave a thump as she tapped it to see if it was ready before placing it gently on a worn wooden board.
Then she turns to a bubbling pot and takes out a colander on which lies a freshly made piece of halloumi that she started working on in the early hours of the morning. She puts it on a plate, cuts off a slice and holds it up to her weathered face, framed by a headscarf, a big smile.
“Eat, eat,” pleaded Sofia.
The cheese is melt-in-your-mouth fresh and bears little resemblance to the shop stuff. Combined with steaming bread and a cup of strong local coffee, it’s the ultimate mid-morning snack.
Joe Minihane lives at Elysium, a resort in the heart of Paphos (above) on Cyprus’ south-west coast
Cyprus has long been a destination for those seeking winter sun. With temperatures rising above 25°C by the end of November and again in February, it’s the perfect place for a dose of vitamin D and days by the pool.
Elysium, a resort in the heart of Paphos on the south-west coast, offers this in abundance, with the chance to slip into the warm Mediterranean at dawn before settling for a leisurely breakfast on a sun-soaked terrace.
However, for travelers who want to get a broader taste of the island, there is an option to head inland, to parts of Cyprus that are particularly quiet and peaceful as the year draws to a close.
One of the joys of Elysium (above) is “sitting down to a lazy breakfast on a sun-soaked patio”
“Cyprus has long been a focal point for those seeking winter sun,” writes Joe. Pictured above is a room in Elysium
That’s why Costas Malaou brought us here from Elysium, to the village of Letymvou and the beautiful traditional house of Sofia.
It is deeply rooted in the slower, older ways of life that exist across the island. In the courtyard, a braai pan is lit and a table is set with a variety of local cheeses and charcuterie, along with more coffee and a tray of homemade baklava. The village priest sits at a table next to him, stroking his wild gray beard, while Sofia’s husband prepares more bread.
Exploring authentic Cyprus is one of the many excursions the resort offers and there are four of us today, including Costas. Otherwise, we might have sailed the Blue Lagoon or visited the Unesco-listed Tomb of the Kings, but Costas says this option is something more and more guests want to do.
Elysium (above) invites Joe for an exploration of “authentic Cyprus,” parts “that are particularly quiet and peaceful as the year draws to a close.”
After dinner, Costas, who insists that the huge spread we’ve just devoured is just a lunch snack, shows us around Sofia’s tiny living room, where traditional costumes adorn the walls. This is a side of Cyprus that is too easy to miss with a good book and an umbrella.
Only a short drive up the mountains we reach the winery Tsangarides. After a peek into the cool cellar, we are led to a terrace that rises high above the vineyards and overlooks rolling hills. We sniff, sniff and sip a selection of fine wines and feast on an obligatory appetizer plate.
Costas explains that this place was at the forefront of a resurgent wine scene in Cyprus, where the tradition is as old as France or Italy, but without their international reputation. There’s certainly plenty to be said for an afternoon drink while the sun shines through the surrounding eucalyptus trees.
Travel back in time to the sleepy town of Letymvou. Here Joe enters “a beautiful traditional house”
Food and drink are at the heart of Cypriot culture. There’s also an inescapable generosity, the sense that even the smallest grower or homeowner will go above and beyond to ensure you get the best reception possible.
We head back to the coast, past the iconic rock pillar of Aphrodite’s Rock. Here, Instagram obsessives flock to the beach for a perfect shot of the place where, according to legend, the goddess of the same name was born. We then drive up a series of hairpin turns to a rest stop called Mario’s.
The joy of this place is palpable as soon as you enter the cavernous dining room, where glass walls open onto a large terrace perched on the cliffs. A gentle breeze blows through the tablecloths as we pull up our chairs for our second lunch of the day.
Aphrodite’s Rock. “Instagram obsessives flock to the beach here for the perfect photo of the place where legend says the goddess of the same name was born,” says Joe
Bowls of freshly made hummus and taramasalata are topped with oven-warm pitta before large plates of lightly minced whitebait, succulent squid and inky octopus arrive.
Costas doesn’t hear protests about full bellies when he serves. Our group of three food-obsessed Brits have been feasting on local delicacies all day so we can’t really argue.
We all take a few deep breaths, loosen our seat belts and get ready for more. Costas raises a glass to our health, and when we’re finally done, we’re ready for a nap to soothe all those jovial souls.
We arrive in Elysium just in time for the sun to sink below the horizon. It’s a quiet end to the day, and you might think you flew 12 hours from London instead of the much nicer five hours.
A few rock spies swing around as the light quickly fades and thoughts somehow absurdly turn to sustenance.
It seems there is always room for more in Cyprus.
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James is an author and travel journalist who writes for The Fashion Vibes. With a love for exploring new cultures and discovering unique destinations, James brings his readers on a journey with him through his articles.
