“It’s a real ship, not an anchored hotel”: Traveler marvels at their Greek odyssey on a boutique ship that swapped water slides and casinos for a more intimate experience

The marina of Piraeus, a port city near Athens, is home to skyscraper-sized superyachts and ferries. The Galileo – only 45 meters long, three masts, wooden decks – looks as if she has slipped unnoticed from another time.

For me and my wife Annie, it was love at first sight. The Galileo is a real ship, not a hotel at anchor. She will take us at a gentle 11 knots through the Cyclades, the chain of legendary islands stretching south to Crete. It will feel more like an odyssey than a cruise.

The 24 cabins house a mix of British, Spanish, French, German and American – mostly couples, mostly retirees. During the eight-day cruise we have fun together, exchange tables and tell life stories in the saloon, on the sun deck and in the bar.

The best cabins are above the water line. Ours doesn’t, and you get used to seeing seaweed outside your porthole. The facility is a bit tired, but the food is great, the crew is very helpful and you never feel rushed from one activity to the next.

We decided on one of the last cruises of the year. Bad weather is a risk and indeed our departure is delayed by the Zeus of all Athenian thunderstorms. After that it’s muggy and bright. I feel sorry for the tired souls who grill and bake on deck in high season in Delos (the main archaeological site we visit).

It has been four decades since I last sailed the Cyclades. What impresses me the most is how intelligent these islands have become.

The tat – the plastic models of the Parthenon, the cheap laminated menus – is gone. The tourist towns and port cities adopted the greige color palette. The small square in Poros where we once drank ouzo and ate freshly grilled squid is now a place of reliable restaurants and boutiques selling elegant scarves and tote bags.

Later in the cruise we make a stopover in Paros (not to be confused with Poros – although I get them mixed up all the time). It’s even more snarky. If you’ve ever been to the posh French Atlantic island of Ile de Ré, you know what to expect: the villages all look like they’re waiting for a posh interiors magazine to come along and show them off.

The Galileo – only 45 meters long, three masts, wooden decks – looks like it belongs to another time, writes Mark

Guests on board the Galileo can mingle in the salon, on the sundeck (above) and in the bar

Mark stops by Paros, where the villages “all look like they’re waiting for some fancy interior design magazine to come feature them”. Above is the village of Naoussa

Paros is just south of the island most dedicated to Plutus (the god of luxury and fertility) today: Santorini, the cliff that launched a million postcards.

This beautiful volcanic island suffered badly from the scourge of over-tourism before Covid. Always a must for Europeans and Americans, the island has become a must for Asian travelers and their billions of Instagram followers.

Our plan is to enjoy these winding streets before the weather brings back the crowds. It is a limited success. We still find ourselves in alleyways and against whitewashed walls while people stroll and take selfies.

However, the Lycabettus restaurant in Oia, Santorini is quite the sanctuary: an oval terrace jutting out over the cliffs. We ask for lids with our rose glasses. Mountains of gray metallic clouds provide a dramatic backdrop for those familiar white walls and blue domes.

The best cabins on The Galileo are above the waterline, reveals Mark

Mark says the island of Syros pictured above is “a delight”. “The wide, walled harbor is beautiful at sunset,” he adds

The other most famous island, Mykonos, is a little disappointing. It has that narrative off-season fatigue. Without the influencers, the beaches and bars feel hungover.

However, nearby Syros is a delight. The city was largely built as a port in the 19th century. Trade later moved to the mainland, leaving a legacy of handsome merchant houses and quiet squares. The wide, walled harbor is beautiful at sunset.

It’s time for another stop before saying goodbye to the turquoise water. The island of Aegina is close to Athens and its bustling streets, stalls selling huge bags of pistachios and bustling cafes prepare you for a return to this wonderful city. As the sun sets, it’s time for an ouzo at a cafe on the rocky waterfront. Fish souvlaki costs 12 euros, an ouzo significantly less.

The tables are that vibrant shade of cornflower blue that will never look quite the same on your gazebo. There is a golden path across the sea from the setting sun to our table. How could I forget that? Nowhere is it like the Greek islands.