See the Big Five. Visit Zulu communities. Relax on Durban’s beaches. As this diverse eastern region reveals… the real South Africa

We drive past plantations of tall, slender eucalyptus trees as my guide tells me we’re not the only ones whose monarchy has changed recently.

“We also have a new king!” he says. I’m in KwaZulu-Natal, a lush, largely undiscovered province of South Africa on the southeast coast. Ask any local where he or she goes on vacation and it’s probably here.

Many foreign tourists head west to Cape Town. You’re missing out because KwaZulu-Natal – about the size of Portugal – has beaches, towns, mountains and safaris… and it’s cheaper.

Durban is the largest metropolis that stretches along the sandy coast of the Indian Ocean, which is warm here even in winter.

British Airways operated direct flights from the UK to Durban, but the route was suspended during the pandemic. While a resumption is planned, holidaymakers will have to fly to Durban via Johannesburg for the time being.

Durban, South Africa’s third largest city, received a makeover when the country hosted the 2010 World Cup – the spectacular Moses Mabhida football stadium was built along a new six-mile seafront promenade, the Golden Mile. You can ride the SkyCar up the stadium arch to an observation deck and for the ultimate ride, try the Big Rush Big Swing, the world’s tallest, which sends you through an arch of 220 meters.

I stay at the Oyster Box hotel on the beach, on a hilltop above a lighthouse in the posh neighborhood of Umhlanga Rocks. This is a stylish establishment that asks guests their pillow preference (please see below) before arrival and offers a glass of bubbly on arrival. yes thank you

Nelson Mandela stayed here (with his first Democratic vote in Durban), as did Idris Elba, John Legend and Charlize Theron.

Durban is KwaZulu-Natal’s largest metropolis and stretches along the sandy beaches of the Indian Ocean

Built in 1863, the architecture is colonial and you will find vintage chairs in alcoves, antique chandeliers hanging from the ceilings and the first edition of Dickens in the library. Outside the pools, the red and white sun loungers and umbrellas match the lighthouse.

The Zulu are the largest ethnic group in South Africa with around ten million people in KwaZulu-Natal alone. Many take their tribal traditions seriously.

After all, they fought against the Voortrekkers and the British army and their new king, Misuzulu kaZwelithini, remains powerful and rich, with a generous grant from the South African government.

You can learn more about the Anglo-Zulu War by visiting Fugitives’ Drift near the famous site of Rorke’s Drift where the battlefield tours are very moving.

The mother tongue is isiZulu, not Western Cape Afrikaans. As for Durban, it has the largest concentration of Indians outside of India and this combination of cultures is one of the region’s greatest attractions.

Durban, South Africa’s third largest city, got a makeover when the country hosted the 2010 World Cup, reveals Jo

Local delicacy: During a game drive Jo (photo) tastes a ‘Mocha Chocarula’ – coffee mixed with hot chocolate and a drop of Amarula liqueur

Enjoy: Treats at the Oyster Box Hotel, which has hosted guests such as Nelson Mandela and Idris Elba

The Oyster Box serves an all-you-can-eat curry buffet with a spicy vindaloo every night. The creamy curry with apricot chicken and prawns alone is almost worth the flight.

Here, too, the Indian community felt the effects of apartheid for years. As non-white people, they were forced into Indian townships and not allowed to use certain shops or certain beaches. And so, in 1893, Mahatma Gandhi came to South Africa as a lawyer to help improve the rights of Indians.

Gandhi spent 21 intermittent years in South Africa, mostly in the Phoenix settlement outside Durban. Today it houses the Gandhi Museum and you may see his granddaughter Ela Gandhi, who ten years after the first democratic elections is a Member of Parliament.

Modern Durban dates back to 1824 when a small British trading post was established to trade with the powerful Zulus. However, the city was only named for ten years in honor of Sir Benjamin D’Urban, the governor of the then Cape Colony. Today the port is the busiest in Africa.

The Zulus used to live in rural communities in beehive-shaped huts with grass roofs. It is half an hour’s drive from Durban in the village of PheZulu where you can meet and learn more about their tribal customs and lifestyle.

A small minority still live this way. The galley cabin is reserved for women; the man cabin for men. Even today, Zulu men can and do marry multiple wives. You sit on a chair and look at potential suitors.

Jo goes to a luxury lodge at Phinda Private Game Reserve (photo).

A pair of lionesses at Phinda Private Game Reserve. During her visit, Jo sees, among other things, a white rhinoceros and its calf, buffalo, a leopard and then a cheetah

“Any offers?” he asked cheekily. No, but I try to imitate his movements when they perform a tribal dance to the beat of drums.

Colorful beads play an important role in their clothing and have historically been used to convey messages. The women wear intricate headbands, waist bands and collars and Durban’s Victoria Street Market offers a tempting array of these trinkets.

Part of this market is dedicated to healing and the tables are covered with chalk balls (the same size as in a bowling alley), some red, some white. Locals use lime as a remedy for many ailments, from acne to pimples to a runny nose. Zulus also traditionally mix the lime with water and use it to decorate faces, bodies and even houses. KwaZulu is also home to the Big Five and for two nights I camp in a luxury lodge at Phinda Private Game Reserve, three hours away.

On the first game drive we see a white rhino and its calf, a buffalo, a leopard and then a cheetah that looks dangerously cute and I joke about petting him. “Their fur is actually very coarse,” says ranger Holly.

When an elephant and a lion are seen the next morning (as are numerous giraffes, hippos and zebras), the Big Five are complete. It must be luck because you rarely see so many different species in such a short time. The rangers stop at 08:00 to prepare everyone a “Mocha Chocarula” – coffee mixed with hot chocolate and a splash of Amarula liqueur. Beautiful.

Most wildlife can be viewed from the safety of a 4WD vehicle, but occasionally the lodge offers bush walks. It doesn’t matter that Holly is armed with a shotgun as we leave, there is still a fear of becoming a leopard’s lunch. We were scanning the binoculars when Holly suddenly stiffened. She points to fresh lioness footprints and concludes that we have been followed. She manages to keep the group calm as we retreat to the jeep and accelerate.

South Africa is brilliant at adventure travel. Many of them have five stars, but on the way back to Durban we go to the community of Umlazi where there are rumors of a new restaurant called Max’s Lifestyle. The specialty is a local braai (called a braai) and £14pp buys a mixed grill served on a wooden board alongside spicy local chakalaka dishes. The meat is incredibly juicy with a spicy kick.

The adventure is rounded off with the return to the Oyster Box, where I order the signature cocktail: an Umhlanga Schling. It is packed with jaggery and liqueur and, like the province of KwaZulu-Natal, it is colourful, strong and fragrant. I raise my glass to this refreshingly diverse kingdom and its new king.