There is a notice hanging from my bathroom window at The Ship on Holy Island on the Northumberland coast. “Try not to open the window at this time. We are being swarmed by little black flies.’
In the middle of winter? I doubt it.
The black flies – along with around 600,000 tourists who flock here in the summer – are certainly long gone, leaving Lindisfarne (as it is also known) to its own devices.
Except that there has been a lot of fuss lately about a government proposal to ban fishing at Holy Island on marine environmental grounds. This would have destroyed the island as a vibrant community, but thankfully Defra backed down.
The campaign to support the fishermen was led by the island’s pastor, Reverend Sarah Hills, who stopped by The Ship during my visit to find “just the right thing”. This is a great advertisement for the sick Church of England.
The inspector visits The Ship Inn on Holy Island – also known as Lindisfarne – off the Northumberland coast
The inn is run by Paul on behalf of a new owner. Paul has lived on the island for years and likes to chat.
He tells me that ten years ago, while he was filming The Railway Man, a production company wanted to inspect the rooms for Colin Firth and Nicole Kidman’s apartment.
“I said the rooms were good,” Paul recalls. And that’s about right. There are four.
Mine is neat and tidy with floral wallpaper and pictures of seagulls. It’s a throwback to softer times, but then again, Holy Island is one of those places where the past influences the present.
Above is a bird’s eye view of Lindisfarne. “Holy Island is one of those places where the past influences the present,” reveals the inspector
There are four rooms in the inn, which is run by local Paul Lindisfarne on behalf of a new owner
Below, a spinnaker hangs from the ceiling, along with a boat lantern and ship’s bells. There is a cigarette ad for Player’s Navy Cut and black and white photos of fishermen from another era.
Holy Island Blessed Bitter is on tap and there is a classic pub menu.
Somehow, it feels good not to be surrounded by luxury, as Holy Island, which is surrounded by St. Cuthbert was founded in 635 AD, is the cradle of Christianity and the Holy Almighty.
Getting to the island is a joy – as long as you stick to the tide schedule.
Every year someone has to be rescued from the dam, invariably by one of the fishermen who act as first responders.
Paul serves a big breakfast. Don’t expect a luxurious oat milk flat white here.
Vegans may not be catered for, but the ship and everyone who sails it knows a thing or two about no-nonsense hospitality.
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James is an author and travel journalist who writes for The Fashion Vibes. With a love for exploring new cultures and discovering unique destinations, James brings his readers on a journey with him through his articles.
