There is no such thing as bad weather, they say, only bad clothes. So it was fortunate that my waterproof gear kept me mostly dry as I walked through a fierce storm in the beautiful Upper Teesdale countryside.
Mists hung on the slopes and thick raindrops pelted my face. But in this picturesque corner of County Durham it had several advantages.
One was that the High Force Falls, a ten minute walk from my hotel, were in full swing.
In fact, it was so strong that it split in two overnight as the River Tees rumbled 70 feet left and right over the edge to create an earth shattering force that rattled the soles of my boots.
Hiker’s Paradise: Will Hide checked into the High Force Hotel (above) and hiked through the beautiful countryside of Upper Teesdale
The roaring High Force Falls is a 10-minute walk from the High Force Hotel
The second is that when you return to the High Force Hotel, you can dry off by one of the two roaring log fires while lingering over a pint or cup of tea and a copy of the local Teesdale Mercury newspaper.
There are 11 bedrooms in this whitewashed building about 14 miles northwest of Barnard Castle, which was once the scene of Victorian gunfights, including the future Edward VII.
The interior has been thoroughly modernized with a touch of casual casual under the personal guidance of Lady Barnard who, together with her husband Lord Barnard, owns the imposing Raby Castle and estate of which the hotel is a part. It’s worth a visit.
Located approximately 14 miles north west of Barnard Castle as pictured above
The High Force Hotel forms part of the imposing Raby Castle and Estate, owned by Lord and Lady Barnard. “It’s definitely worth a visit,” says Will
You’ll find king-size beds, antique wardrobes and paintings, soft upholstered chairs, power showers and bathtubs to relax in after a busy day.
Some rooms can accommodate dogs in addition to their owners. Behind the bar, a friendly group of local staff led by manager Andrew and his partner George can recommend nearby attractions and walks.
Walking is a popular pastime in the Upper Teesdale Valley. It forms part of the North Pennines Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty with undulating dry stone walls, rolling green valleys dotted with sheep, hayfields and raised moors.
Under Lady Barnard’s personal guidance, the interiors have been thoroughly modernized with a touch of country-route casual, reveals Will.
In the hotel you will find extra wide double beds, antique sideboards and paintings as well as comfortable upholstered armchairs.
From February to May, you can watch how hats are ‘nice’ when the males show off and show off their tail feathers for the females on the farm.
There is also a rich carpet of flowers, especially in spring: the area overlaps the northernmost zone for some southern wildflowers and the southernmost region for those that extend from the north.
Nowhere else in Britain will you see rare spring gentians.
At the hotel restaurant, Will had a dinner of steak and ale pie with mash, followed by luscious fudge and ice cream
The hotel has power showers and bathtubs where you can relax after a busy day
Back at the hotel, grab a seat by the fire for a pint of Black Sheep Ale or a bottle of Raby Estate Ale before dinner. My steak and ale pie with mash was just what I needed after soaking, and miraculously I had room for gooey fudge and ice cream.
I wasn’t able to stargaze during my stay because of the cloudy skies—it’s a popular spot for stargazing because of the low level of light pollution—so instead I chatted by the fireplace with a young North Carolina couple who loved the area has.
The next morning the full English breakfast hit all the right spots and was enough to fuel you for a day of exploring this quiet corner of County Durham.
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James is an author and travel journalist who writes for The Fashion Vibes. With a love for exploring new cultures and discovering unique destinations, James brings his readers on a journey with him through his articles.
