The inspector visits a ‘wonderfully atmospheric’ 18th-century inn in Wiltshire, with its roaring fires and ‘proper bar’ guaranteed to warm cockles on a cold winter’s evening.

Nothing warms the shells like arriving at the Beckford Arms on a cold winter’s evening. crackling fires; stone slab; real old wooden bar; comfortable sofas; walls adorned with art (and a Cambridge University sash); Boots in the hall, but not all in a row, as if auditioning for a glossy magazine; an original bay window; nice chat

There are eight rooms in this wonderfully atmospheric 18th-century coaching inn on the Fonthill Estate, owned by Lord Margadale, near Tisbury, Wiltshire. Ours is described as “extra small” – and full of fairness points. It is small with a shower room in what must have been a closet at one time. The casement window is approximately 2 feet by 1 foot.

We feel like a cup of tea, but find that there are used tea bags in the pot. And we wonder why the only photo looks like seed is flying through the air.

It’s a relief to be downstairs again, where there are a number of interconnecting rooms and cozy salons, including a private 12-seat dining room. At the back is a terrace with wool carpets and stoves perfect for smokers.

Some paint jobs can do with a conditioner and some may find a few stains too much. “More shabby than chic,” says my wife.

I think this is exactly the kind of place that Prince Harry and his posh friends would have loved in the good old days – to drink pints of real ale and argue about whether Eddie Jones should be sacked as England rugby coach.

“Nothing warms the shells like arriving at the Beckford Arms on a frosty winter’s night,” says the inspector

At the back is a terrace with wool carpets and stoves perfect for smokers

When the inspector leaves the inn, he passes through the archway (above) built in 1755 as the gatehouse to the Fonthill estate

There are a few dining tables in the living room. We choose one near the window. A toddler is sleeping on a couch, her parents are reading next to her.

It’s a smart menu with a bar section (burgers, fish and chips etc). Our sirloin steak is exquisite and it’s great to have good linen napkins. We linger because the prospect of squeezing ourselves into our “extra small” space does not fill us with joy.

Breakfast the next morning is a leisurely affair, perhaps a little too relaxed. There seems to be only one member of staff doing the picking and carrying. I have to go see her to ask for a second cup of coffee.

On leaving we pass the Arch which was built in 1755 to serve as the gatehouse to the Fonthill Estate.

It is a beautiful Grade II listed building and half of it now has two guest rooms, a new addition to this venerable establishment.