London Fashion Week struggles to mourn Elizabeth II

London Fashion Week struggles to mourn Elizabeth II

Elizabeth II’s death preceded London Fashion Week by a few days, which promised a gloomy week, deprived of media attention. The big names in fashion were able to give up, while the young designers had no choice but to parade.

“The show must go on” as they say. But can British fashion continue to show as if nothing had happened while the Queen of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland and the Commonwealth are buried? It is to avoid being completely overshadowed by this news that big names in fashion like Burberry and Raf Simons have decided to cancel their shows scheduled for London Fashion Week. This is held despite everything from 15 to 20 September 2022, as desired by the British Fashion Council (BFC). How much?

The state funeral of Elizabeth II that plagues London Fashion Week

Inspired by the restoration of art, the Erdem Spring-Summer 2023 collection examines “the space between care and obsession in the pursuit of conservation”, and appears almost as a tribute to the monument that was Elizabeth II.

Indeed, maintaining a parade at a time when Elizabeth II’s funeral monopolizes all media attention is a risky bet. However, young creators and small brands cannot afford to cancel, due to the costs already incurred for their long-scheduled show (usually nearly six months in advance). Impossible to back down, various stylists therefore parade at all costs, in these particular conditions. The official schedule of the BFC reads as follows:

” There will be no activities scheduled for Monday 19 September due to Queen Elizabeth II’s state funeral. All activations have been rescheduled or postponed. “

Screenshot 2022-09-19 at 16.22.50
Part of the collection presented by Dilara Findikoğlu during London Fashion Week Spring / Summer 2023. © Instagram screenshot.

As noted by Guardianthe designer of Turkish origin Dilara Findikoğlu, for example, found herself on the catwalk on Saturday 17th instead of Monday 19th: two days less, a nice penalty before the parade.

A funeral that put the young British designer in debt

Not only that: not only have most of the parties been banned, but many sponsors of the parade, which help cover much of the costs of these shows cut to be great, pulled out at the last minute. Because what interests them in sponsoring an event is the visibility it should bring. However, since all the media have their eyes fixed on Elizabeth II’s funeral, why support a small designer who will necessarily make less noise? Enough for indebted part of the young British designer.

Worse still, in this period of royal mourning, the BFC even suggests suspending all street style jobs: enough to fine a large number of street photographers, and even content creators for whom this represents a part of their livelihood, especially during Fashion Week.

Screenshot 2022-09-19 at 16.28.10
The final look of JW Anderson’s Spring / Summer 2023 fashion show. © Instagram screenshot.

Several designers have adapted part of their show based on this important novelty for the United Kingdom, for example JW Anderson who closed his show with a t-shirt in homage to the late Queen of the United Kingdom. Great Britain and Northern Ireland, while Harris Reed’s bride carried a bouquet of lily of the valley, Elizabeth II’s favorite flower. This however represents a huge deficit for this sector which usually brings £ 32 billion into the country. And the domino effect of Elizabeth II’s death on the UK economy has just begun …

Featured photo credit: Instagram screenshots JW Anderson, Harris Reed, Erdem.

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Source: Madmoizelle

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