Sephora Kids: what are the risks for children’s skin?

Blushes, cleanserSlotions or even face creams based on active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or retinol… More and more children are trying to imitate their adults by purchasing beauty products from stores like Sephora. The target ? Being able to afford trendy cosmetics on TikTok and cinematic content for this same platform. Generally between the ages of 9 and 13, these “Sephora children” they are starting to develop cutting-edge skincare routines at younger and younger ages by adopting renowned brands such as Drunk Elephant, Glow Recipe, La Neige, Dermalogica, Byoma and Sol De Janeiro.

With moisturizers costing over 70 euros, one can easily wonder how such young children can afford such expenses. But what worries the most, it is above all the impact that these different cosmetic products (and above all their active ingredients) have on the skin of young children.

A dangerous trend for the health of young people

Retinol, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid or even bakuchiol… This is a non-exhaustive list of active ingredients regularly used by the cosmetics industry. And while some may be relatively harmless to our adult skin, others, like retinol, are (even for us) sometimes difficult to tolerate. But what effect can these active ingredients have on the skin of children aged 9 to 13? The American dermatologist Danilo Del Campo attests this AFP that more and more children are using adult products. In his opinion :

“Many of the parents I see don’t even know there is a risk and trust beauty influencers more than their doctor.” He also deplores “an increase in consultations for skin reactions and concerns arising from the improper use of these products”.

But what exactly are the risks? According to the same expert: “Young skin is more delicate and more sensitive to irritation. The skin barrier can be damaged by unsuitable components “. The latter believes that there is also a risk inherent in too early exposure to the chemicals contained in these cosmetics. Result? Irritations, allergies and intolerances are all problems that can emerge from the use of unsuitable products at an early age. Not to mention a less waterproof skin barrier it makes the skin more fragile in the face of environmental damage such as pollution or UV rays.

Retinol, for example, is a very abrasive resurfacing active ingredient (often used in an anti-aging context) that even adults have difficulty tolerating. Methods such as the retinol sandwich or using an alternative to this active ingredient (such as bakuchiol) may be recommended to achieve the same effects without causing skin irritation. Although these tips are often known to informed adults, children are not always aware of them. The latter are more likely to turn to “fashionable” products with fun and colorful packaging rather than looking for cosmetics dedicated to their skin type… Which can create sometimes violent skin reactions.

What does a child really need in terms of cosmetics?

Let’s say that before puberty the child does not really need cosmetic care. A simple face wash with water and a splash of thermal water (if sensitive) is sufficient, together with the daily use of sunscreen. From puberty onwards, you can add a good (gentle) facial cleanser, exfoliator and moisturizer to the equation, but that’s about it! We save retinol and other goodies for our early thirties (and that’s already happening too fast).

More and more brands are speaking out

We can therefore easily ask ourselves what is the role of brands in this vast problem? While some blame parents, who are the sole guarantors of what their children do or do not post on social networks like TikTok, others talk about the responsibility of brands who create increasingly fun packaging to whet the desire of buyers.

The Dove brand, and more precisely its vice president Firdaous El Honsali, recently spoke on the topic in a press release. We can read there:

“Since when do 10-year-old girls worry about wrinkles and aging skin? It’s time to speak up to highlight the absurdity of the situation and protect their self-esteem. At Dove we believe that beauty should be a source of happiness, not anxiety. For two decades we have been working to build the confidence and self-esteem of millions of girls. Today, our daughters are using anti-aging products before they even start to grow and they need us more than ever.”

If we underline the good thought of this text, we cannot help but think so the cosmetics industry must fully assume its responsibilities in the face of this global phenomenon. But how ? Simple enough focusing their marketing on educating this consumer group and the skin risks and benefits of using certain complex ingredients. Only by adopting this educational approach will young people be able to understand the dangers or real benefits of these cosmetics. The mass has been said!