The sun’s rays start to get stronger and this can be annoying for the skin. Not only because of the problems caused by UV rays, but also because of the use of certain active ingredients that cause photosensitivity. The pharmacist Belén Acero, owner of Apotheek Avenida de América, explains to us which ingredients we should no longer use or use with some precautions.
retinol
Retinol is a cosmetically active ingredient derived from vitamin A with proven anti-aging efficacy through clinical studies. In addition, it is used on acne-prone skin and helps to reduce blemishes. The concentration will determine the tolerability. The higher the concentration, the greater the chance of redness, dryness or irritation of the skin. Therefore, it is necessary to introduce it into the routine gradually. If your skin is already used to the treatment, you can continue to use it in the summer without any problems. It is always necessary to use broad spectrum sun protection daily and reapply it regularly.
If, on the other hand, your skin is not yet tinned, I recommend that you postpone application until after the summer, as it is not convenient for the sun to shine on irritated skin, which can lead to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or other spots.
retinoic acid
Retinoic acid, also called tretinoin, is a medication and should be prescribed as such by a doctor. It is an active ingredient with great anti-photoaging efficacy, which is also used to treat acne and hyperpigmentation of the skin. Its tolerance is worse than retinol and can cause adverse effects such as irritation, redness and even peeling of the skin. As for summer use, I recommend talking to your dermatologist about whether you want to continue using the product or discontinue use.
Salicylic acid
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid that, in addition to exfoliating and deep cleansing the skin, regulates sebum production. It is a highly recommended active ingredient to treat oily and acne-prone skin. When performing an exfoliation, the skin is more exposed to UV rays. If your skin is used to using this active ingredient, you can only continue to apply it at night in the summer and use a high sun protection daily. If you’re thinking of incorporating it into your routine, you’d better wait until September unless your skin is very resistant, which you could use.
glycolic acid
Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid that, while not photosensitizing, may expose the skin to more UV rays. It is an active ingredient that has an exfoliating effect, achieves cell renewal and thus improves expression lines, wrinkles, enlarged pores, pimples… As in the case of retinol, its action is more potent as its concentration increases, but it affects its tolerance. In summer it is better to use it in lower concentrations and even stop until September when we are very exposed to UV rays (beach holidays). Otherwise, if you stay in your city and don’t expose yourself much and if your skin is already used to it, you can keep using it. Remember to apply high broad spectrum photoprotection daily, and repeat every two hours.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C is the most powerful antioxidant that protects us from the harmful effects of UV rays, pollution, etc. In addition, it stimulates the synthesis of collagen and elastin, responsible for the skin’s firmness, and inhibits tyrosinase, which participates in the process of skin pigmentation. Pure vitamin C is a light-sensitive active ingredient, ie it oxidizes in contact with sunlight. But stabilized vitamin C is more resistant to solar radiation. It is advisable to continue to use it in the summer, in the morning, accompanied by photoprotection, because in this way our skin has a better defense against damage from UV rays. If you’ve never used vitamin C before, you should know that it can cause irritation on certain skins and at certain concentrations, so it’s better not to introduce it into the routine in the summer and wait until September.
Source: Marie Claire
