The Dorset-sized country to put on your bucket list: Visit historic Luxembourg for culture, fairytale castles – and FREE non-stop public transport

Imagine you are in a country where you can travel from one end to the other without paying a cent. Meet the first country in the world to offer public transport completely free for all: Best regards, Luxembourg.

And while it was a local initiative to get cars off the road, the end result is a boon for tourists.

Bordered by France, Germany and Belgium, Luxembourg is such a tiny dot on the map (the country is about the size of Dorset) that it can sometimes be hard to spot. Dutch, Belgians and French have long flocked here, but British holidaymakers have traditionally stayed away. One look at Luxembourg City and it’s clear we’ve missed something.

The hilly capital tumbles over and into a gorge. It is a colorful jumble of Gothic turrets, towers and pastel colored houses clinging to the sheer sandstone walls from the gorge down to the river.

There is a glass elevator that takes you up and down – for free of course – so you can enjoy the view.

“A view of the city of Luxembourg [above]”, writes Jo Kessel, “and it is clear that we have missed something.”

Luxembourg has a turbulent past. Over the centuries it was contested and ruled by the French, Habsburgs and Dutch, and only finally gained independence in 1867, although it lost much ground to its neighbours. Instead of a monarch as head of state, the country has a grand duke, making Luxembourg the only grand duchy in the world. The current duke, Henri, is 68 years old and took over when his father abdicated in 2000.

His palace (complete with marching soldiers) was built on a plateau. “He’s home,” said my guide, pointing to a parked Tesla.

It takes an hour to drive from top to bottom in Luxembourg, so instead of lugging my suitcase, I planned day trips from the capital.

My hotel is located in the Kirchberg district on a hill, next to the Mudam Museum of Modern Art and opposite the European Court of Justice. It would have been an easy bus ride from the airport and it’s a five minute tram ride from Kirchberg into the city. But will it be just as easy to leave the capital?

The first day is textbook. A tram and then a bus take me to the Mosel region, where terraced vineyards rise from the river. Schengen is the famous three-country point where three countries come together. From here, cross the bridge and you are in Germany. Turn right and you will soon be in France. It makes you thirsty and the Domaine L&R Kox winery offers tastings. Their Riesling and Pinot Noir go well together, but it’s the £22 a Pop 2014 Sparkling Cremant that steals the show – it’s elegant, dry and dances on the tongue.

Jo visits Vianden Castle (above), a fairytale castle on a hill

Above is an aerial view of Esch-Sûre. Luxembourg took a big hit, says Jo

Imagine you’re in a country where you can travel from one end to the other without paying a penny – that’s Luxembourg

Luxembourg is one of the world’s best freebies of all time, explains Jo. Above is the Adolphe Bridge and Constitution Square in Luxembourg City

In the north, I like to visit Vianden Castle (a fairytale castle on a hilltop), followed by Edward Steichen’s Family Of Man photo exhibition.

My latest adventure consists of a walk in the east, where forests seem almost strange. Giant 200-million-year-old rock piles float among the trees, and the 70-mile Mullerthal Trail winds between them.

For one of the smallest countries in Europe, Luxembourg has a lot to offer. It has culture, castles and vineyards as well as some of the most unique walking areas. Even better, it can now be explored for absolutely nothing. You don’t have to pay to get on a bus, you don’t have to worry about buying the right ticket – it’s one of the world’s best freebies ever.